A dollar each way?

**Leo109** · 8th February 2016, 11:49 AM

Hi All,

Started the wheel bearing check/replace and 'convert to run in oil' project on Daphne Discovery yesterday.

Started on the LH rear and found it has been running in oil for some time. And that the oil has been escaping slowly from the hub 'grease seal' for some time too. The inside of the disc and the inside brake pad were covered in oil and dust. The inner side of the mud shield was clean and dry, so the leak wasn't obvious.

As there was plenty of oil in the hub, I didn't bother removing the stub axle to remove the axle seal - it obviously hasn't been doing anything for a while.

When cleaned-up, the bearings and cones looked pristine so I re-packed them with a bearing packer (the two white plastic cone thingy - great invention!), and put them back with a new RTC3511 double-lipped oil seal - having an each way bet with some grease plus the diff oil. Anyone see a problem with this?

The original hub seal (FTC4785?) sat flush with the inner edge of the hub (and this is how Rave says to install replacements). The RTC3511 has a small lip outside the seal-to hub contact area and protrudes a few mm inside the hub edge. Is this an issue when the hub is pushed fully back on? I was careful to fully clean the stub axle where the seal sits, including the curved part beyond that.

Would appreciate comments/advice from others who've done the 'run in oil' conversion. Thanks.

**loanrangie** · 8th February 2016, 05:16 PM

The top of the lip should sit flush with hub top edge , when i did mine there was still grease in the swivels even i had never topped them up.
I added 200ml of 90 diff oil and there are no leaks so seems to be working ok.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

**justinc** · 8th February 2016, 07:31 PM

Hi ian certainly you do not want any of the seal protruding. And no having yhe oil and grease isn't an issue☺

Jc

**jboot51** · 8th February 2016, 07:47 PM

I use a standard drive flange to seat the rtc3511 seal.
It seats the seal about 4mm below the face of the hub.
Haven't had an issue for over 80 000 kms.

**Leo109** · 9th February 2016, 10:43 AM

Thanks guys. So, it seems the seal should not protrude past the edge of the hub. But this leaves me in a dilemma. Please see the photos below.

Am I supposed to drive the outer lip of the seal into the hub rather than just seat it against the hub face?

**Tins** · 9th February 2016, 11:18 AM

I haven't done this, but looking at your third pic it's hard to see that you can drive that seal in any further without butchering it. The back face of the seal seems to be up against the boss, or rebate, of the hub, just before the bearing race. Maybe it's a new type of seal, but, as I said, I haven't done this on this type of vehicle. Perhaps try fitting it all up and then take it apart again to see if the seal fouls on anything.

**Tank** · 9th February 2016, 12:07 PM

Originally Posted by johntins

I haven't done this, but looking at your third pic it's hard to see that you can drive that seal in any further without butchering it. The back face of the seal seems to be up against the boss, or rebate, of the hub, just before the bearing race. Maybe it's a new type of seal, but, as I said, I haven't done this on this type of vehicle. Perhaps try fitting it all up and then take it apart again to see if the seal fouls on anything.

I had the same dilemma as yours and it took a lot of trial and error to get it right (for me).
What I did after replacing seal first time and found it still leaked was to clean the area around the seal with some carb cleaner, thinners or Shellite will do, wiped the actual lips of the seal clean (dry rag).
Then I smeared Bearing Blue around area where seal lips should run and up the fillet (curved bit) and fitted the hub and bearings and adjusted to specs., spun it a few times and removed the hub to inspect the results.
Now I can't remember how deep I inserted the seal into the hub but the outer lip was running up on the fillet part of the hub.
So I seated the seal a bit deeper so the outer lip mark was just at the base of the fillet, it still leaked cause the inner lip was not running on the front of the seal collar.
So after a LOT of hair pulling and fine adjustments I ended up with the outer lip just kissing the fillet and the inner lip just inwards of the seal collar on the hub, finally after a year or so no more leaks, maybe I should check the diffs oil level, you know what they say about LR, "no leaks no oil", Regards Frank.

**Judo** · 9th February 2016, 01:56 PM

Yes, that photo is how it looks. Hit it with the drive flange as jboots51 suggests. It will go in until completely below the surface fine.

**loanrangie** · 9th February 2016, 02:37 PM

I use an old seal that has some of the rubber removed and a piece of wood and tap it in to place.

**jboot51** · 9th February 2016, 05:16 PM

if your Brisbane south side, I can flick you a drive flange.

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