
Originally Posted by
sierrafery
In most cases one(or more) shot diode in the rectifier would create parasitic drain not the regulator, undo the thick brown lead from maxi link FL1 in engine bay fusebox and if the drain goes away the problem is at the alternator.... in this case my money is on the diode pack, if the drain stays on this way too start removing fusible links one by one untill it drops then we'll know which circuit is problematic
1.4 amps, so maybe 17 watts. Any system on the car could draw that, so a process of elimination. I agree, after chasing something similar, that the alternator, and specifically the rectifier is the place to start. Most everything else gets isolated by the key, immobiliser being one obvious exception.
Of course, if it's the alternator then you may as well just get the whole thing done and go for ten more years.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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