Thread: LT95 Transfer Thrust Muncher

Originally Posted by fitzy

Please excuse my ignorance.
What are torringtons?

My fault for using what is probably an incorrect term but one I'm used to, the correct name is needle thrust bearing.

Kit8684-2.jpg

Originally Posted by Dervish

It's the fundamental flaw in the LT95 transfer case; the intermediate gear not driving the centre diff is being driven by the centre diff. That is, at 100 km/h the hi range gear is spinning at ~2000rpm, while the poor low range gear is spinning it's brain's out at 6500-7000rpm. That means more heat and wear.

Thanks, yes, that makes sense. If there is more sideways thrust from the .996 gear set and the low range gear is running faster than normal it results in the perfect storm. All the thrust is directed towards the low gear end. I may have to change to the 1.113 gear set as a compromise.

Needle thrust washers would be a great idea. Not sure if anyone has tried this in anger. It would probably only be required for the two thrusts surrounding the low range gear.

Originally Posted by captainslow

Thanks Davo - it may be a contributing factor and that was why I noted the configuration I was running. The bronze washers are holding up well but I'll be keeping an eye on them (fortunately you can peek into the top of the transfer box from the oil filler plug and get an idea of wear). Even if the .996 ratio is the worst case I wouldn't be trusting the steel thrust washers in any install.

Cheers, Pete

PS I think I found the thread you were referring to. Interesting...
LT 95

I do believe that is the thread! Well done. There is a lot of heat in that area at high speed, and once upon a time I saw an eBay UK auction for an LT95 transfer case sump with an oil pump in it. Apparently it was Genuine, but so rare it didn't even have a part number, which sounds about right for the Land Rover factory from the old days. The pump was driven by one of the transfer gears, so the oil could go through a cooler. I kept photos, (which won't upload right now), and I always thought it would be great to make one. But still, you obviously found the culprit with those crappy parts.

Here we go.

Originally Posted by captainslow

Philip, yes I'd checked that and all the radial and axial holes were clear. However it does raise another issue. I've got two intermediate shafts to choose from (see below). They're both not perfect but the hardening is still intact. At the Low Range gear end of the shaft (where I have the problem) one of the shafts has a ring milled around the entire circumference however the other only has a slot. So there has obviously been a bit of evolution of the shafts. Anyone know which is the latest and best to use?

In a previous life I used to work in/own a gearbox repair shop. Both these shafts from your pics look to be in excellent condition.
We would put them in a lathe and run linishing tape over them and they would look like new.

As for your problem. I would be very hesitant using steel thrust washers and I believe this has probably caused your failure.

A previous post also noted the use of Torrington bearings. This was what we always knew them as.

Captianslow, what is the yellow stuff that you used for checking gear mesh? I used to have stuff called yellow orca, but I cant seem to find it any more.
I recently rebuilt my sons diff in his county and had to use bearing blue. This is much harder to use due to its dark color not showing up well on the teeth.

Originally Posted by d2dave

In a previous life I used to work in/own a gearbox repair shop. Both these shafts from your pics look to be in excellent condition.
We would put them in a lathe and run linishing tape over them and they would look like new.

As for your problem. I would be very hesitant using steel thrust washers and I believe this has probably caused your failure.

A previous post also noted the use of Torrington bearings. This was what we always knew them as.

Captianslow, what is the yellow stuff that you used for checking gear mesh? I used to have stuff called yellow orca, but I cant seem to find it any more.
I recently rebuilt my sons diff in his county and had to use bearing blue. This is much harder to use due to its dark color not showing up well on the teeth.

Thanks Dave,
I wasn't aware of linishing tape so I'll do that next time I have the shaft out - which may be pretty soon. I'm sure the steel washers are a contributing factor but I'm going to change the hi ratio gear back to the 1.116 even though it makes long drives a bit more painful. I will do a bit of research on the torrington thrust bearings just in case there is something that would be a drop-in replacement for the thrust washers - you never know your luck...

The contact paint I used to check the gears was artists oil paint - cadmium yellow to be precise, available from any art supplier. I had got that tip off another forum and it worked a treat. A bit of degreaser on the gears then painted the contact surfaces with a small paintbrush.

Cheers, Pete.

Ok, here's one for the gearbox gurus. There is a torrington thrust needle roller that could replace the LT95 transfer case thrust washers.

Here is an example:-
Koyo FNT-5070 Thrust Needle Roller and Cage Assembly, Open, Steel Cage, Metric, 50mm ID, 70mm OD, 3mm Width, 5900rpm Maximum Rotational Speed, 40200lbf Static Load Capacity, 8520lbf Dynamic Load Capacity: Thrust Roller Bearings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

This is exactly the same size as the thrust washers - 50mm bore, 70mm outside diameter, 3 mm thick.

Am I simplifying it too much to think that this thrust needle roller is a drop-in replacement? It seems too good to be true...
The thrust needle roller would "roll" on the surfaces of the pear washer and gear so there may be a wear issue.
Any advice appreciated.

BTW, there was a previous AULRO post on this issue but it wasn't first hand. For reference the post was: LT95 intermediate shaft bearing upgrade

Originally Posted by captainslow

SNIP
This is exactly the same size as the thrust washers - 50mm bore, 70mm outside diameter, 3 mm thick.

Am I simplifying it too much to think that this thrust needle roller is a drop-in replacement? It seems too good to be true...
The thrust needle roller would "roll" on the surfaces of the pear washer and gear so there may be a wear issue.
Any advice appreciated.

I'm also very keen to know if this could be a solution, I have a well worn transfer case in my County and another two of these boxes in vehicles that could be upgraded if it is a simple solution...