Thread: TDI COOLING SYSTEM

So now the head is actually sealing, other issues that were hiding in the background are poping up.

Not good.

Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by SSmith

So now the head is actually sealing, other issues that were hiding in the background are poping up.

Not good.

Sent from my SM-G800F using AULRO mobile app

My theory good or bad is that i have possibly jumped a tooth or 2 on the timing belt, when i was rotating the crank by hand doing the tappets i had 1 pushrod that wasnt seated properly and it jammed so i just cranked on it just thinking is was tight.
Not even sure if thats possible but a TDC check will confirm, there has been no issue with blowby before and i could open the oil cap and leave it sitting there loose without it coming off.

How rusty were the bores? Valve issues won't contribute to blow by , unless the guides are stuffed and there's no stem seals, valve timing can contribute to an extent.

No rust on the bores at all , blowby might not be correct but closest explanation i could find. Idles with a rough sort of knock which it never had before.

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Running issue sorted, checked the tappets and number 8 had about a 8mm gap.
Re did them using the difflock guide and now its running like it should .

8mm................. that's a little more than a little bit.

Hope it works out over the long term, like 5+ years, you deserve it just for persistence!

I would have spat it (maybe, throw me a bone haha).

DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

8mm................. that's a little more than a little bit.

Hope it works out over the long term, like 5+ years, you deserve it just for persistence!

I would have spat it (maybe, throw me a bone haha).

DL

I had adjusted them a couple of times and i'm ****ed as to why it was so far out , yeah i did get fed up last Sunday so i just left it for a week and got re-acquainted with my kombi for the work commute.
I dont give up easily.

I don't know what procedure you used to determine which valves to adjust at what crank position but I find using first principles is safer and makes you think about what you're doing. When you turn the motor over by hand, observe cylinder no. 1 valves, when they rock from one to the other you adjust no.4 valves as this cylinder will be at firing TDC. Then you turn the engine until no. 3 valves rock and adjust no. 2 valves and so on. Once all 4 cylinders are adjusted at their respective TDC's run through them all again to check, and also check that all the lash caps are still in position. You'll be wise to recheck the clearances in a couple of thousand clicks in any case.