Thread: Series 2/2a vs Series 3 Front Axle

Essentially yes. However SIIA frequently have reinforcement where its not on civvy SII

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That said SIII 109 have stronger yolks on the unis and are 24 spline at the drive flange. The stub axles are one piece where SII/SIIA have a removable ring for the hub seal.
SIII swivel balls are the stronger SIIB F/C balls.

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Are the diff ratios the same on the 2s and 3s?

Diff ratios are 4.7-1 on all 4 cyl and 6 cyl series. The ratios are 3.54-1 on v8 series 3. The other differance that no one has said anything about is the wheel studs are different size on s3 and pressed into the hub and on s2 they are screwed and staked into the hub. They have different size wheel nuts. Then there is the brakes that also have some differances. The 88" has 10 inch brakes. The 109 has 11" brakes and the 6cyl and v8 109 s3 have 11" brakes but a wider 3"" shoes. The backing plates are different as are the drums between 4 cyl, and the 6 and v8. But in saying this the diffs are basicly the same between s2, s2a and s3, 4 and 6 cyl.
Hope this helps.

Cheers Rod

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You know that it's almost easier to overhaul your swivels than it is to swap whole assemblies and bleed the brakes etc.

How are your swivel balls? If they're not pitted or scored you don't even have to take the swivel housings apart. it's a matter of:

1. drain the oil (plug at the bottom of swivel housing)
2. taking off the hubs
3. removing the stub axles
4. move the brake backing plates with shoes and hydraulic line still intact out of the way and holding them clear with a string., (is easier without the shoes but clamp the rubber hose before removing shoes)
5. slide out the axle halfshaft assembly,
6. then undo the six bolts attaching the balls to the axle housing.
7. move the ball away from the axle housing slightly.
8. remove the seal retainer and seal,
9. clean the housing insert the new seal (applying a little sealant between the seal and housing)
10. replace the retainer.
11. clean and replace the gasket between the ball and axle housing (use a little sealant too)
12. then reverse the rest of the process.
13. top up oil

You can even get away without removing the tie rod ends from the steering levers but its easier if you do.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

You know that it's almost easier to overhaul your swivels than it is to swap whole assemblies and bleed the brakes etc.

Good advice, though with shot seals you will be lucky if the swivel bearing(s)/bush aren't worn as well. The movement would have contributed to the shot seals.

That said, IMHO is would still be a lot easier to re-do the swivel bearings & seals than swap the whole assembly. Provided the various bolts undo without difficulty, swivel repair is a very straightforward job.

Cheers,

Lionel

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

That said SIII 109 have stronger yolks on the unis and are 24 spline at the drive flange. The stub axles are one piece where SII/SIIA have a removable ring for the hub seal.
SIII swivel balls are the stronger SIIB F/C balls.

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How does one differentiate between S2 balls, S3 (2B FC) balls, and S3 Stage one balls visually.?
Keith

The whole thing is a waste of time if not done right.I'd buy two complete swivel overhaul kits from the UK and do the lot,balls,seals,swivel pin bush's the lot.It'll take a saturday to do a half arsed job or a saturday to do a good one,may as well do a good one. Pat