Thread: lt230 housing

There are minor differences thru the years of production 83 - 2015 but i believe the basic casting is essentially the same.

There are the LT230R, T and Q. Whichever one you have is what you'll need to use to replace it. Rs are pretty thin on the ground and if you had one you wouldn't have a leaking intermediate shaft, but steer clear of them for this exercise (they all have a pressed steel PTO cover, though some Ts do too). Ts and Qs are both fairly common so be careful. T and Q cases are quite different.

Basically, when you find a candidate; take off the inspection plate and ensure that the width of the gears match the width of your gears.

I'm looking at just the housing. I will reuse my gearset.

Originally Posted by manofaus

I'm looking at just the housing. I will reuse my gearset.

I know, sorry perhaps I wasn't clear; different width gears fit in different housings.

There certainly are differences.

From what i've seen personally. The late D2 transfer case (main case) is the strongest and best machined case i've seen. Casting appears far better with more design on case strength and noise reduction.

I know for a fact that pre facelift and facelift Discos have a different main case.

I'm in the same boat as you, soon i'll be getting the case sleeved (where are you getting yours done if you don't mind me asking). As far as i know MR automotive is the only place that will do it in Australia.

I'll be sending my D2a main case to be done, and i want that case back sleeved (non exchange).

I will do it myself. Problem I have is my defender is my work car hence looking for a housing to machine up. Material wise I have 4140 k1045 and h/t bolts to use. I was going the stepped route but now I am thinking a counter bore in housing with a blind bore. No seal problems ever again.

How does the counter bore and blind hole work?

How do you insert the intermediate shaft back in?

Counter bore inside housing. Shaft still goes into front of housing. Might make the shaft a little shorter. No need for the o-ring any more. It's just a thought at the moment. I have not had one apart to know if it's possible.