Sum of all actuator rods ...
		
		
				
				
					
				
		
			
				
					Morning all, complete newbie, first post here.
I've spent the last few weeks picking all the amazingly clever and experienced brains here around this very subject. Lots of info covering this exact topic, but it's spread around lots of threads.
So, after mind numbing amounts of reading and some very enthusiastic and carful experimentation, the summary of everything the Wise Ones have to say seems to be:
The wastegate actuator rod length only technically changes the point at which the actuator actually opens the wastegate, though there's probably differences in individual engines and setups ... and which way you hold your xxxxx ... I mean tongue, and how far below sea level you are, and which way the wind and smoke is blowing. My own lovely old 300tdi gives me an extra 0.5 to 1.0 psi boost when I wind the rod shorter, and increases the low rev power/torque amazingly.
The easiest way to up the boost seems to be to move the wastegate sense hose from the turbo outlet to the spare blanking plug on the rear of the intake manifold (?M14 or M12x1.5 thread). This seems to increase the boost on my 300tdi by about 2.0 to 3.0psi (with clean hoses, intercooler, boil the billy, block the unused port on the turbo tee, wash the dog etc). This is due to the friction in the pipes and intercooler effectively reducing the pressure at the manifold. So the actuator now 'waits' til the turbo output is a little higher, to reach wastegate opening point. Works well on mine, though I understand this may reduce effective fuel ratios a little - my next adventure in the black arts of Landy diesel tinkering.
As for turbo boost controls, the sum of all knowledge on aulro seems to be that these things are simply valves to enable variable amounts of leakage to atmosphere from the turbo to wastegate actuator hose - given a bit of filtering and damping of the air signal - I understand you can use any appropriate tap, valve, kinked copper pipe, rock stuffed up the hose etc, that will allow the right amount of leakage, to effectively reduce the pressure signal to the actuator, so that it opens at higher pressure.
One Wise Landyphile (who I can't recall, sorry) posted a link to a hand made very cheap boost valve along these lines: AutoSpeed - Brilliant Boost
Anyway, hope that helps the OP to get a bit more for a lot less.
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
				Doctorrr Deee
1998 Disco1 300TDi; aircon & radio !!
1993 Deefer 200TDi; worker, we fell out of love after the 5th gearbox rebuild.
1983 Rangie 3.5 V8; beastieboy, gorn to the big smoke.
1959 SII 88" LtWt exarmy; chickmagnet, floating in the ether.
			
			
		 
	
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