Thread: Anti-seize on ball joint tapers?

I have never done it.

I've never had one seize on without it so, for me, I wouldn't. Maybe if one lived where one has snow and the authorities salt the roads....

Thanks for the replys, I've never done it either, but I always do bolts/studs etc, and thought "why not the ball joint taper?"

Cheers,

I do it.

usually use a copper antisieze but even a good hit of grease or rubber grease will give you a boundry layer against the parts corroding together.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I do it.

usually use a copper antisieze but even a good hit of grease or rubber grease will give you a boundry layer against the parts corroding together.

Same here, with a smear of grease, no probs.

The bigger issue is the threads in the drag link and track rod which need corrosion protection as well.

DL

Can't see a problem provided you remember that the whole point of the taper is to effectively make the two parts become as one when tightened. We used to use a tiny smear of molybond on the LARCs, but we used molybond on EVERYTHING on the LARCs. And they were used primarily in salt water.

Originally Posted by TimNZ

So, is this a good idea or not? Just wondering what the recommendation is?

Cheers,

Come across a few that had copper-cote (copper grease) and in most cases had a mongrel of a job stopping the taper spinning in it's tapered hole, had to tear off the rubber boot and use vice grips to hold shaft while undoing the nut, esp. if some one has burred the thread trying to knock it out, Regards Frank.

Regardless of what it is you never assemble tapers in any condition other than clean and dry. Pat