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Thread: Flat AGM batteries

  1. #11
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    A bit of an update on my original post;

    One battery (main) was dead flat, the other (aux) was disconnected and after 12 months sitting, still held over 9 volts.

    The main was hooked up to the little ctek for a couple of days (after a few hours on a standard charger), but on reaching the test phase, where it runs up to 14.5v in for a while, then checks to see if it will hold 12v, the battery failed. It is, however, now holding about 5v, so there may be hope for it in the long term.

    The aux battery ran on the ctek overnight, and is now on float, with no errors.

    I'm planning to let the aux stand alone overnight, to see how it holds up, and put the main back on charge (standard first, then ctek and see how it goes. He's already purchased a replacement main (Yellowtop D34) so if the old battery recovers it'll be kept as a spare.

    Thanks for all the advice, folks. It's helped enormously.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi John, and you can only try recharging the Optima and see if it is recoverable.

    My Range Rover has not turned a wheel in just under 3 years now, but I forgot to take the batteries out and after 14 months, I did so.

    The cranking battery, which was just a couple of months old when the RR broke down for the final time, was at 0.7v and I managed to get it back up to a 55Ah capacity. It's a throw-away.

    The Optima was also low, can't remember how low and after quite a few recharge-discharge cycles, I have it back to about 60% but it is useable for odd jobs around the workshop.

    So give your Optima a few charges and see how it goes.
    Thanks Tim. The annoying thing is that, like yours in the RRC, the Optima was only in the car for a couple of months before the transmission went. Wish I'd known the dangers then. It could have been doing service in my D1.

    On another note: got my isolator yesterday. Thanks a lot. You can expect a phone call!
    ​JayTee

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    Thanks Tim. The annoying thing is that, like yours in the RRC, the Optima was only in the car for a couple of months before the transmission went. Wish I'd known the dangers then. It could have been doing service in my D1.

    On another note: got my isolator yesterday. Thanks a lot. You can expect a phone call!
    Actually, there's a question. Once I replace the isolator with yours, is it worth a try putting the Optima in the aux battery position and letting the alternator have a crack at it? Or can I do harm? The C-Tek has been at it for a while now. It throws an error after a while, unfortunately.
    ​JayTee

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  4. #14
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    Hi John, try starting your motor and then use a set of jumper leads and give the Optima about 15 minutes on charge with your motor at idle.

    See if this brings it up to where the Ctek can charge it.

    A slow charge with the Ctek is still the best way to go until the Optima is charged properly.

  5. #15
    DiscoMick Guest
    Good advice.
    I have an AGM which was fairly new, but was left unused for about a year. It would not give a reading on my Projecta seven-stage charger.
    I plugged a 15 watt solar panel into it and left it for a month. The battery is in an Ark battery box. After a month the meter on the battery box is showing five green lights. However I don't know if it will cope with being put under load.
    I intend to leave it on the solar panel until December and, if it is OK, take it to North Straddy camping over Xmas.
    We'll see how it goes.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi John, try starting your motor and then use a set of jumper leads and give the Optima about 15 minutes on charge with your motor at idle.

    See if this brings it up to where the Ctek can charge it.

    A slow charge with the Ctek is still the best way to go until the Optima is charged properly.
    I tried 15 mins off the Falcon,, but the C-Tek still brought up an error. So, last night I gave it an hour off the Ford, and then tried again. It's been on for nearly 24 hours now, with the Car, Recon and AGM modes on, and it is nearly up to the green lights. So, I might be on a winner.
    So, can someone tell me what is meant by 'float'? Is that just leaving on the charger?
    ​JayTee

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    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trout View Post
    I had a few very flat agm batteries. My Ctek charger is a 20 amp jobbie. I also have a little Ctek. Both would not charge them as they need a min battery voltage for the charger to detect the battery. I have used both a cheap charger or another good battery to trick the Ctek into starting the charge.
    I tried that, but not with a spare battery, as I didn't have one not in use, so I hooked up one of those lithium iron jump starters more in hope than anything, but nope. Maybe if I had left it longer, but the Optima drained it pretty quickly.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
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    OKApotamus #74
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    I tried 15 mins off the Falcon,, but the C-Tek still brought up an error. So, last night I gave it an hour off the Ford, and then tried again. It's been on for nearly 24 hours now, with the Car, Recon and AGM modes on, and it is nearly up to the green lights. So, I might be on a winner.
    So, can someone tell me what is meant by 'float'? Is that just leaving on the charger?

    Float is when the battery is fully charged and the charger lowers the output voltage to a rate that will keep the battery topped up without over charging it - usually around 13.7V from what i have seen/read.
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Float is when the battery is fully charged and the charger lowers the output voltage to a rate that will keep the battery topped up without over charging it - usually around 13.7V from what i have seen/read.
    Cheers. I kinda thought that was it, but I've come undone with my '40 years ago' training lol. Best to ask.

    Anyway. I may have saved my Optima. I sure hope so .
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
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    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post

    Once the batteries are fully charged, let them stay in the FLOAT mode for at least 8 hours, then disconnect the charger and let the batteries settle for around 12 hours and then repeat the charge cycle.
    Tim, when you say 'repeat the charge cycle', do you mean the 'regen cycle', or just a normal cycle? See, this stuff is confusing..
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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