I've sized my panel to fit this roof tray. That's why it's only 80 watts, but I think that will be enough as the second battery is only running a 30 litre Evakool fridge off a 120 amp AGM.
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I've sized my panel to fit this roof tray. That's why it's only 80 watts, but I think that will be enough as the second battery is only running a 30 litre Evakool fridge off a 120 amp AGM.
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Seeking some advice, if possible. I'm mounting an 80 watt solar panel to the roof rack and running it through a 10A regulator in the battery box. So, my question is, do I need to fit a fuse or circuit breaker as well as the regulator, or does having the regulator make fusing it unnecessary? I have a 10A circuit breaker I could connect it too, if I can find space to fit it in the battery box, but is it really necessary?
The panel's stats include:
Maximum power voltage 18 volts DC, maximum power current 4.5A, open circuit voltage DC 22.5V, short circuit current 4.9A.
What do you think?
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I am taking mine off its permanent mount.
I like to park in the shade so will have the panel on a wander lead so I can face it to the sun.
Keith
Mine will be on a tray so undoing 4 clamps will let me lift it off and the Anderson plug can be unplugged easily.
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Attachment 115729Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Mine is 120W semi flexible that I have mounted to marine ply and then secured to my Pelican box on the roof. Undo 2 small bolts and a padlock and it slides off, disconnect the Anderson and I have an 8m cable with an Anderson each end so the vehicle can be in the shade and the panel in the sun, also as per pic I can park the car in the afternoon North / South and just open the box for more direct light.
As for the fuse, I have a 20A fuse as well as a regulator, but then I run 2 Engels, one as a freezer and the other as a fridge when in expedition mode.
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Thanks for that.
My solar is going to the starter battery, which then connects through a Traxide and twin 60A fuses on a heavy lead to the second battery, so its double-fused from the fridge end plus the Traxide.
At the other end, even if the 10A regulator failed there shouldn't be a lot of current between the starting battery and solar panel, I think. Still, I guess its better safe than sorry. I might add the 10A circuit breaker between the regulator and starting battery, just in case...
I also have folding 80 watt panels which connect with an Anderson plug to our camper trailer. So, having an Anderson plug under the bonnet to the starting battery, plus there is already an Anderson connection directly to the second battery, should give plenty of solar options.
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No worries.
My starter battery is the third one and is isolated from everything except alternator which charges it first then switches over to supplement charge if required. Have never had an issue with any of them under 11amp on the multimeter.
Sounds like your system is well thought out and with the circuitry set up you shouldn't have an issue. I would still add the 10A just because I like double redundancy on the elec-magic thingy's
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Is expedition mode a switch on the dash... [emoji48]Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesters Td5
I was looking for such a mode but the finance director told me I had to do luxury mode first (central locking).
Thanks. It was a total mystery to me, so I've tried to over-compensate on the electro-trickery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesters Td5
I already have all the auxiliary plugs and accessories running through circuit breakers, just in case. I like circuit breakers because they reset once the problem is isolated, so you're not mucking about chasing down the right size fuse in the bush.
I made one attempt to tidy up the wiring in the battery box, but it's starting to look like spaghetti central again.:confused:
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LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by stewie110
The minister of finance here wants A/C that has more than 2 vents pointing at her knees. Told her I could do that, but only after a new dash was available. Thankfully LR have seen fit to not produce such a thing or I would have to fit it and there goes all my $ for fun stuff
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