Thread: ABS, ETC & HDC lights on - what the?

The trio of lights usually comes on when there is a fault with an ABS sensor. Take each wheel off and give the brakes and hubs a good clean. Check the sensors that they are in the right position and are not damaged.
Cheers.
Lyndon.

Had this myself a while back and it turned out to be a small fault with ABS sensor, had it plugged into the diagnostic computer and all faults were cleared, easy as that - done for free by the LR mechanic I always use but think it is outragous that someone wants to charge you $150 just to plug it in. This should be done for free....if they expect to get any long term business out of anyone!!!

My advice would be to try someone else and stay away from the guy you have already spoken to, sounds like he's after the contents of your wallet....fast!!

Aye, and good luck. Let us know how you go.

Mick

It could be something as simple as a stuck brake light switch through to a dodgy wheel speed sensor all the way up to an ABS modulator.

Try the basics first, if no good then you'll probably need to get the fault codes out of the ECU.

Do not worry to much about those lights,the only problem is getting them off I also believe that this problem could be fixed with a software change if the problem is not there in the next ign switich cycle the lights go off.

Something landrover should be looking at fixing!!!
yes landrover do use the OBDII so do most vehicle manufactuers $150
is very cheap but can you clear the fault codes as this will turn the warning lights off.

Different vehicle manufactuers use different software so what will work on one type of vehicle will not work on another.

I bought something from the U.K. that reads codes plus I can change settings,read info from the vehicle while drving good for seeing what the engine is doing etc and changing the suspension height etc.

The black box that goes between car and computer is reasonable cheap it is the software that makes it a bit pricey,the reason I bought one is I am a diesel mechanic and hate taking it else where to get fixed.here is an address www.rovacomlite.com or try blackbox solutions

P.S. how do you do a clickable address??

Fish we had this problem 4 weeks ago, B Davis reset it for $40 turned out to be the brakes squealing at the same pitch as the ECU senses faults it thought we had self levelling suspension and was trying to self level when it couldn't it shut down that part of the ECU which has ETC, HDC, ABS, SLS, and ACE 8O :roll: also it happened again only it was a loose connection to the ECU this time.

Go elsewhere, the Ford bloke is trying to rip you off $150 is OK if the sensor is replaced but is not if only clearing faults.

Baz.

My Dealer who is a Stealer only charges for time and consumables where appropriate. On the diagnostic - 10 min = $20, 1 hour = $120

At worst your stealer should only be charging for time used - at best he should charge nothing as a good will gesture because you might come back when you have a real problem and he might actually make some real money.

As suggested, check the sensors etc and if that fails follow the procedure for disconnecting the battery and then disconnect it - this may clear the codes. I haven't tried it on my Freelander which has the same basic elctronics/ABS/ETC/HDC etc as the D2 but it does work on my D1 with the check engine light etc.

If the problems persists then try the diagnostic route.

Gazzz

<span style="color:blue">and if all else fails....check the alternator.....</span>

Originally posted by stevo
I bought something from the U.K. that reads codes plus I can change settings

<span style="color:blue">
isnt this the same as "chipping".....?

or it wont work on the engine management side of things....</span>