Thread: Rim Selection (Steel Rims or Aluminium).

<span style="color:blue">steel rims will dent and buckle before they break....
alloy rims are more brittle and will crack.....

a dented steel rim can be adjusted back into shape using a hammer....
and you are on your way again.....but i am talking extremeties......


it is however very rare to break a rim unless you are totally careless
or unfortunate.....(this not to say it doesnt happen....)

a steel rim is said to be stronger than an alloy one......
obviously the thicker the steel the stronger the rim....

alloys look better.....


others will have more info and advice.....</span>

why don't you run 2 sets and keep your 18" for on the road and get a set of 16" to go out and play with???

Originally posted by Steinzy
why don't you run 2 sets and keep your 18" for on the road and get a set of 16" to go out and play with???

this would be the best option in my books

and will end up saving you money in the long run :wink:

I cracked the inner rim part of an alloy on my Disco 1. Dirt road (normal 2wd road), got flat tyre, and just driving on it until I stopped was enough to have a rock crack it. Steel would only bend, and it might not even bend.

Only cost me $110 to have new section welded in from specialist alloy shop and is as good as new. The repairer did mention LR alloys are pretty strong if that means anything - I can only assume he wasn't comparing them to alloys on sports cars.

When my current tyres wear out I will be fitting new tyres to the steel wheels I bought as replacements.

If you can afford it Steinzy, is right. keep the flash tyres and rims for the road, and get some seroius tyres for play, that is what I am doing because a tyre that you are going to use mainly on the road will always be a compromise off road, and visa versa

Cheers Blythe

I keep two sets of rims, both 16", alloy and steel. I prefer steel in the bush because I can fix flats with confidence ie bend not crack (and I've fixed a lot).

One difference is that the alloys steer and ride significantly better that the steels on the highway which makes sense weightwise, but then the steels do have 10 ply Coopers...

Be aware also that steels use different wheel nuts than alloys so you should get 5 steel rims and another set of wheel nuts.

I've always run alloys and never had any issues.

The old Rangie 3 spoke 'boomerang' alloys are as strong alloys get. They can bend as well (seen a couple), not aure obn the S2 Disco alloys.

Steel are better for hardcore work though but they're hard to get for you model unless someone is making a aftermarket set for them :?:

Trav

To all above thanks a heap for the informative replies you have certainly got me thinking over time now.

Some of the matters that you guys have risen in the posts above I didn’t even contemplate that at the present time. I can see though that this part can not be done half assed and im going to have to fork out AGAIN plenty of dollars :x Bugger.

I was thinking about the weight and also no need to carry another set of wheel nuts and I don’t think that Ill be taking this 4x4 totally hardcore at the moment so I might go alloy. But with this second set Ill have to watch that at the end resalt (New rim & tyre) that the outside Diameter stays the same. As if the Diameter that what was set up from stock won’t the low range gearing be out :?:

Another thought if I have to go 16" rims to get a decent tyre for off road will the rim fit over the disk brake assembly, dose any body know :?:
I think some one mentioned this to me at one stage I cant recall. So I might have to be stuck with 17" rims.

This could take some time. :?