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Thread: Leaky 2 1/4 (Advise on Rear Main) also 32/36 performance.

  1. #1
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    Leaky 2 1/4 (Advise on Rear Main) also 32/36 performance.

    For a long time I've appreciated the rust free chassis on my Land Rover, due to the factory fitted self lubrication system, which runs off the engine.

    But recently the oil leak has become too much. Yes, there is only one leak and a couple of miniscule seeps.

    The leak is the REAR MAIN oil seal and it leaks toooooooo much. Several weeks ago I removed the gearbox and fitted a new rear mail seal, along with the crescent shaped surrounds (NEW - Genuine), and threw in a new clutch while I was at it. I did this under the supervision of a mechanic, to ensure I didn't botch the job - plus I needed a hand to get the gearbox back in.

    The seal performed for 2 days before spouting :x :x :x


    Now the leak is worse than before, and the countdown to my Simpson Desert trip has begun. Any suggestions on how to repair this?

    When I replaced it I didn't remove the sump and the main bearing cap to replace the "T" piece gaskets, the oil is coming from the bell housing drain hole.

    On a brighter note, I finally had the Weber 32/36 Jetted & Dyno tuned. 40% increase in power [21 - 30kw @ rear wheels at 100kph] and 20%+ increase in economy (early results). I haven't noticed greater speeds, or much better hill climbing, but it does everything with less effort. My over zealous timing advance was previously compensating for its lack of tune. I had to take someone to the airport today (running late & lots of freeway) so I was pushing the Landy along. I got 5.5km / litre, previous highway milage was 4 km / litre (on LPG). At this rate the Dyno tune should pay for itself soon. Thanks to Hillway Dyno in Kilsyth. They do a lot of performance cars, but when I picked up the Landy, the manager knew what he was looking at and talking about, being ex army (RAEME in think).

    I know it's just a sewing machine motor, but it's robust and easy to work on, rear main seal excepting.

    Please please please, any advice or tricks for the rear main seal.

  2. #2
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    MMMM ive rebuilt a 2 1/4 litre and when i did the rear main seal i did the t gaskets as well makes me wonder if that was your problem all a long

    those t gaskets need special tools to replace them but dont stress you can easily make them out of angle iron

  3. #3
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    Can they be done by removing the sump and the rear main bearing cap?
    Or do I have to remove the gearbox again ?

  4. #4
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    that im not shaw cause i did mine with the motor out of the car you might have to take the sump off to see i think the fly wheel could be in the way

    but you never know your luck id also be carefull where you source you seal try and get original

  5. #5
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    hmmmmmm,rear main seals,me shudders with memories,oh what fun that was,NOT!!!!!!!
    first attempt with g/box out,seal supplied was in two,yes two halves,when enquiries where made ,was told "thats how they come",so fitted it(against my better judgement ,but had to slow the rust prevention program for rwc ! ) and after much $#@^%@^$#@!^$#@ got the g/box back in.
    After start up and a drive into the rwc place ,drip,drip,drip,so drove it home ,this time after another call to parts supplier(original parts too i mite add!)it was agreed that just maybe it was a suspect part and they would send me another one,UGH,not taking that &%$#&$#*g/box out again,so motor came out,new seal AND "T"seals went in and hey presto, no leaks,(took about three days to get that%$*$*&%$motor to line up again)

    to answer your question , yes the sump will have to come off,if you can get enough room to do it in vehicle ,go for it ,otherwise is better to remove it and use either an engine stand or workshop floor,and use some feeler guages to protect the t seals when replacing the main bearing cap

    have fun

  6. #6
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    Leaky 21/4 (advise on mains) also32/36 performance

    G'day Michael2
    Are you sure it is Engine Oil :?: as an over filling G/box will pump the oil up the primary shaft into the clutch housing and it will drip out of the wading plug hole I have a 2a that pumps oil from the Transfer case into the G/box and when that overfills it pumps it up the Primary shaft :x it might be worth checking the G/box & if it is over full drain some out and put it in the Transfer case as that is where it came from :wink:

  7. #7
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    Yeah, I've checked and it's engine oil.

    I know you're talking about internal leaks, but as an aside, since using STAG Paste [a food grade sealant available at auto shops] as a sealant on the gearbox, it hasn't developed any external leaks.

    - Michael2

  8. #8
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    Leaky 2 1/4 (advice on Rear Main)also 32/36 performance

    G'day Michael2
    "STAG" greatest thing since sliced bread, a must in every British Motorcyclists toolbox/saddlebags the only thing to stop leaking fuel lines and taps you haven't experienced VIBRATIONS until you have ridden a ridid framed, BSA, Trumpet,Jazza(AJS) or Norton 8O and it stopped them leaking, well for a few weeks :wink:

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