Thread: Steering groan in Defender at carpark speeds

Its normal!

Only happens at low low speed....

Mine is especially noisy now with the 16x10s and 305s

Been like that since new (2001)

Cheers
Mike

uh oh, I'm getting really worried as mine doesn't do it...... 8O

What fluid are you fella's running in yuor P/S ?
as the OEM Caltex Cold Climate/PAS 14315 fluid is pretty good stuff (it's green in colour)

Thanks for putting my mind to rest boys and also for the rapid replies.
Am very excited about the new beast and look forward to actively participating on the site as I learn more and get out and about.

Regards
Darren

Originally posted by dhumphri
Thanks for putting my mind to rest boys and also for the rapid replies.
Am very excited about the new beast and look forward to actively participating on the site as I learn more and get out and about.

Regards
Darren

Hey Darren - where abouts are you located?

Omaroo I live in Kurrajong Heights which is in the Hawkesbury region Sydney - will be joining the Sydney Landrover club shortly.

The Following is a Bulletin that might answer your problem


Creak in Steering at Full Lock


MODEL/DERIVATIVE: Discovery II
Bulletin N o : 0086
CDS. ref: L8685bu
Issue: 1
Date: 19.12.01

AFFECTED RANGE:
All vehicles
PROBLEM:
KNOCKING / CREAKING NOISE FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE
Knocking / creaking noise when turning at slow speeds (predominantly steering from lock to lock).
CAUSE:
Movement of internal spacer in the front longitudinal chassis member where the Power Assisted Steering (PAS) box is located.
ACTION:
Where a complaint of the above is confirmed, locate and plug weld the spacer as described below.
1. Disconnect both battery leads and the alternator.
2. Remove the front road wheel on the drivers side.
3. Raise vehicle on lift.
4. Remove 2 nuts securing anti-roll bar link, remove washers and anti-roll bar link. CAUTION: If the Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) bar is moved, ensure the pipes are not strained.
5. Remove PAS box upper and lower rear mounting bolts.
6. Referring to attachment 1 for detail, mark out 4 hole positions and centre punch.
NOTE: The dimensions shown on attachment 1 are approximate and are
intended as a guide to the drilling position only.
Prepare for welding. Any nearby chassis fittings such as brake pipes must
be protected from weld spatter to prevent corrosion at a later date.
Health and Safety guidelines in accordance with local market requirements
MUST be followed.
7. Flat bottom drill 4 holes 8 mm diameter at the positions marked, drill until internal spacer is exposed, the holes can be drilled to a maximum of 10 mm. Depth of the holes may vary.
CAUTION: If the spacer is not exposed, a further hole may have to be drilled to establish the position of the internal spacer.
8. Grind chassis to expose bare metal around the drilled holes.
9. MIG weld the edge of the internal spacer to the chassis, ensure spacer is fixed to the chassis before proceeding. Completely fill all holes with weld.
10. Grind excess weld material level with the chassis.
11. Etch prime bare metal, repair paint finish as required.
12. Refit steering box bolts and tighten to 90 Nm.
13. Refit anti-roll bar link, washer and nuts and tighten to 100 Nm.
14. Lower vehicle.
15. Refit the front road wheel on the drivers side and tighten nuts to 140 Nm.
16. Reconnect the alternator and the battery earth leads.
_________________

Unfortunately I dont have the hole positions
but it is probably the answer to your problems

I hope that someone can come up with the diagram of the hole positions

Cheers Aston

Originally posted by dhumphri
... will be joining the Sydney Landrover club shortly.

Me too. See you at the meeting on the 28th?