Thread: D1 water bottle cracks and cooks engine?

Have read this with interest.

A few years ago I replaced the plastic rad. plug with a brass one from SEQ somewhere on the recom. of someone, somewhere & in the interests of common sense. Why LR fitted such a piece of rubbish for Oz conditions, I'll never know.

Have also just been out to check the black tank & cap.

Is it possible that the cause of the tank splitting, is the spring loaded pressure relief valve in the cap, fouling up for one reason or another. ie. no inhibitor but crap water, needs a routine clean & a lube etc.

I may be being simplistic, but I wonder if it may not always be a crap tank, but a crappy PRD which allows an excessive pressure buildup & damage?

If it is blocked/seized, who knows what the eventual pressure in the tank gets up to on a hot day in Oz?

My thoughts.

I don't think so Des.
The crap black plastic tank syndrome appears to be a known problem of several years standing. I thought the new tanks were merely the earlier version without black pigment, although I've been assured it is a slightly different material as well. Mine strated to split along the seam (without any coolant loss) so I replaced it. The new tank has been there for eighteen months or so with the original cap ops: and it still 'relieves' itself ok.

BTW, the rad plugs are 1/2 " BSP. Easy to swap out with brass, particularly when you have a few brass fittings on the shelf .

That's my thoughts well & truly scuppered, Rick.

Do you know if the tanks consistently fail in the same spot?
Mine's fine at the mo but having said that, it might be tempting providence now. :roll:

I'm pretty sure mine split at the seam, on the side closest to the side of the vehicle.

Thaks D95. I'll keep an eye on it from now on.

mine started to crack on the lower half immediately below the seam on the forward facing end.