Reply With QuoteI would go with Bronzing the brass and steel together as it will be easier and will produce a stronger weldOriginally Posted by twr7cx
YarnMaster
Supporter
Brazing/silver soldering brass and steel
I’m looking to add a hose connection onto the TD5 turbo oil drain tube in order to drain my Provent back into the sump similair to how isuzurover describes in Fitting MANN+HUMMEL Provent to a TD5 110
Called a plumber mate to ask about borrowing or getting help with silver soldering/brazing the fitting into the tube and he queried about what flux or solder we would need to combine the brass and steel. He hadn’t combined with steel before and had only worked on copper and brass before it seems.
anyone able to advise please?
OldBushie
SupporterI would go with Bronzing the brass and steel together as it will be easier and will produce a stronger weld
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Swaggie
Why wouldn’t you use the same material for the drain rather than having two different materials.
I didn’t bother and just ran a piece of clear tube down to the bottom of the fire wall and put a valve on the end. Over 10k kms the amount of oil is only small.
YarnMaster
SupporterIve only been able to find the hose barb is stainless steel, bronze or plastic. All three being different to the tube. The instructions from isuzurover used the brass one hence I assumed it would be achievable...
SysAdmin (Owner)
is very achievable, dissimilar metals isnt 100% ideal but it will work and last if done properly
just braze it with the blue fluxed rods
make sure you have it clean as you can get it and "tin" each surface before you do the brazing together, makes life much easier.
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Swaggie
Blue tip silver solder as Inc said,but make sure the steel and brass is extremely clean.
Must use correct flux,or fluxed rods.
Bronze rod will also do and is cheaper but also must be clean and use flux coated rods or separate correct flux powder.
Watch the heat as the steel will heat up differently to the brass,don’t overheat,particularly with the silver solder.If the steel gets red hot it won’t take.
TopicToaster
SubscriberFor soldering, I'd be gunning for 45% silver solder, and flux to suit.
For brazing, I'd recommend Tobin Bronze (AKA Comcoat T).
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Master
SubscriberSilver solder. As said, everything must be clean (brake cleaner). I personally prefer a plain rod and seperate flux.
If you can get the tail in stainless, why not use that? Stainless silver solders beautifully.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
ForumSage
Dont ever use brake cleaner for cleaning welded surfaces. The gases it can release under the extreme heat can be literally deadly!
Master
SubscriberYou let it flash off and/or dry off with compressed air obviously. But yes, had the odd unexpected flame up when got sidetracked, usually talking when should have been concentrating .
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
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