Thread: Wiring up worklights using Disco Switches

I found, somewhere on defender2.net iirc, For the black plug:

1 - power in
2 - dash illumination
3 - not used
4 - switch - power out to accessory
5 - earth

The numbers are printed on the plug, small tho.

I am not sure about the white plug.

the 'fog light switches' on the dash pod are great for controlling lights. ie. you don't need to mod the fascias!
You probably already have some blanks you could replace them with.
I've fitted a front fog light switch to control my led bar.

I think Simon's reply is correct, middle one not used(vague recollection when I fitted my fog light switch).
I just checked power in/out with a multimeter to determine what each wire did/was.

Strangely tho, I had a quick peek at RAVE's electrical circuit diagram, and they show a red/brown wire for power in to the switch but list it as pin 2 on the connector.
And then a light green/red wire from pin 1 on the connector to the BCU!
Earth on pin 4.
Then if you trace back to C0096, it only shows 3 wires(page 258 RAVE electrical library), and again LtG-R/Red-Brown/Black.
Yet your switch(and the one I have) show 4 wires .. different colours on some lines!

Many thanks for the great info.
I will set up my power supply and test wire with relay and a globe to make sure it is right

Cheers

To make them trigger a relay and light up in the dark you have to connect them as follows:
Hazard switch pins: 1 - switched earth output, 2 - switched live from lighting switch input, 4 - earth, this switch was conceived to switch on earth so the relay must have direct ignition live on it and you switch the earth to it's coil
HDC switch(this one works on live), pins: 1 - ignition live input, 2 - earth, 4 - switched live output, 5 - switched live from lighting switch input

Originally Posted by sierrafery

To make them trigger a relay and light up in the dark you have to connect them as follows:
Hazard switch pins: 1 - switched earth output, 2 - switched live from lighting switch input, 4 - earth, this switch was conceived to switch on earth so the relay must have direct ignition live on it and you switch the earth to it's coil
HDC switch(this one works on live), pins: 1 - ignition live input, 2 - earth, 4 - switched live output, 5 - switched live from lighting switch input

Many thanks for clarifying.
I just put together a quick sketch on wiring using HDC switch based on your description. Not sure about the Hazard though.
What do you think?
HDC Driving Light CCT.jpg
REVISED DRAWING
Also, a couple of years ago my uncle bought me a couple of these switches YUG000470LNF and YUG000540LNF as per photo from UK, and wired up a diagram for roof rack driving lights and work lights using these but havent been able to do anything yet.
Just need to confirm wiring for correctness and if correct other members on this forum can use these for future reference.
Many thanks
YUG000470LNF YUG000540LNF.jpgDriving Light CCT 006.jpg

I'm not an expert on electrics(in fact far from it), but I would have thought that a single 40A relay would be more than enough to run 4x70W(280) total power requirement.
That is, keep it as simple as possible to minimise the number of points of failure.

Originally Posted by AK83

I'm not an expert on electrics(in fact far from it), but I would have thought that a single 40A relay would be more than enough to run 4x70W(280) total power requirement.
That is, keep it as simple as possible to minimise the number of points of failure.

Agree, I was just being too conservative. Each light has input current of 6.7 amps x 4 ~27 amp total.
I will modify, thanks for feedback

Thanks for your contributions guys.
Last night I wired up all circuits (except the Hazard switch) on test bench and worked perfectly fine.
One interesting observation, the YUG000470LNF rear demister I think, even though the pin 2 was not connected the tell tale led was actually turning on while switch on, bonus one less connection.

Cheers