Thread: Brand new D2 auto trans.....Need help!

Originally Posted by SPROVER

I'm running a boost box so i don''t get the overboost problems.
I've tried the hill descent control and it seems to switch on. The HDC icon is illuminated on the dash.
I have attached a picture of one of the switches that wasn't connected. I'm assuming it was from the transfer case.
Would this have anything to do with it?

Not sure as have not had much to do with D2 TD5s, just the Defender TD5 and D2 V8s, but maybe. Anyway you can revert to what it was and see?
Cheers
Craig

the numbers out of the system should be absolute pressures, if those numbers are under normal driving conditions your boost is a little low.

whats the MAF flow numbers look like, baring in mind that if you are running a boost box its purpose is to sit between the sensors and the computer and lie to the computer.

its possible (and if it is this will be about the 10th instance of this I've seen) that the boost box has failed in some way and is throwing the ecu out of limits but you're not getting error codes because all the replicated sensor resistances used for diagnostics are still showing up.

none of the missing wiring should be causing your issue.

black smoke is always too much fuel for not enough air or the fuel being injected far too late.

As near as I can work out, mechanically and directly related to the fitment of the auto the only thing the auto could be doing thats causing the issue you have is if the auto is binding and you're loading the biscuts out of the engine to get it to drive.

This could be

1. the wrong TC or the TC fitted incorectly and its binding on the front of the pump in the box. This is unlikely as in neutral the engine will freely run and you havent had the box explode.
2. it could be dragging clutch packs so effectively youre trying to pick 2 gears at once and your simply abusing the clutches until one gives out. It might be this but then once you get the gears to change you'll get a gear where only the dragging clutch is engaged and then it will drive normally in that gear. Also it'll drive like its got an extra brake always on so when you back of the noise the speed will drop, the auto temps will also be very high.
3. its got the wrong TC in it. the one you have may fit but the stall point and multiplication are too high so you're loading up the engine but not getting enough drive out of it, similarly if the sprag for the stator is stuck or freespinning similar results can happen but they dont match perfectly for your symptoms.

have you checked for damaged harnessing yet? thats what I would be checking next along with disconnecting all the sensors one at a time and running diags for the missing sensor. if you drop a sensor and dont get an error message then you're on the track to solving the issue.

What else was done while the box was out?

Thanks for the replies Dave. I've attached a picture of what they have done. It really feels to me like something is dragging down low off idle.
This place has a very good reputation but i have also read of a few instances where they have not done the job correctly. If I remember correctly
I think Wardy on here had his previous D2 done there as well. Only for it to fail in the High country some where not long after!
Not sure why this site keeps putting the pics upside down!

Originally Posted by CraigE

1.72 Bar is nearly 25psi, could over boost be an issue, like I have just had after fitting a new turbo on my Defender? I know over boost limp mode is set at 1.25 bar on the Defender TD5.
Cheers
Craig

Yes, but that’s 1.72bar over ambient. I’d expect this is an absolute value because if the motor is blowing black smoke it’s definitely not getting 1.72 bar into it. 0.72 bar boost would be approx correct for part throttle and no load.

Following is a pdf with graphs from your Nanocom File. The _F graphs have been filtered to remove spikes so you can see a bit more detail.

2019test.pdf

I can't see anything especially untoward and the patterns replicate other logs I've plotted. I agree with Dave that your turbo pressures are a bit low. On my car which is standard I top out about 225 rather than 180.

Others may see something though.

Cheers

Steve

I went for another drive. And still the same. The smoke coming out the back off idle is embarrassing. It takes about 3 seconds to get any decent boost and to get it moving off the line. If i floor it at 40kmh it has all the power it had before. I've had enough at the moment. I paid all this money and it has
come back worse. I'll be taking it back tomorrow and they can get it right. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Thanks
Chris

could be a number of things at this point.

best thing is to give it back and let them fix it. if you fiddle you loose your warranty on the workmanship.

i dont like the spiking in the raw data and the turbo flow is out.

potentially when they reset the learned info they cleared out what the vehicle had adapted to on the boost box. I suspect that there may be noise on the harness from a crushed connection or wiring or it may simply be the TC is faulty from manufacture.

The transfer case may also be binding, how hots it getting after a drive?