Td5 sump gasket - do they still leak and require filing down?

**twr7cx** · 26th January 2019, 02:32 PM

While searching about the sump gasket on the Td5, I came across the thread from March 2014, 'Td5 Sump gasket ..... why they can leak' < Td5 Sump gasket ..... why they can leak > which discusses the issue with an overthick compression limiting steal on the nearside rear corner and requirement to file down. Anyone able to advise if this is still an issue?

Lraltitude · 28th January 2019, 08:01 PM

I recently fitted a genuine sump gasket to my td5 and it leaked on the right rear corner. I read the thread you mentioned and decided not to chance fitting another one of them gaskets, i opted to remove the sump and do away with the rubber gasket altogether, I used a wurth silicone gasket and seems to be holding up. Travelled approx 2-3000kms since.

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 24th February 2019, 05:12 PM

This is my first ever post so go easy on me. I fitted a Victor Reinz TD5 sump gasket in December last year and was informed that this is the OEM gasket for this engine. I made sure surfaces were scrupulously clean, applied a 2mm bead of Loctite SI 5900 just in the four points indicated in RAVE and tightened as per updated torque settings in LR Tech Bulletin 0034. The Victor Reinz gasket looked to be of good quality and I did not modify it in any way. The sump appears to be clean and dry some 3000kms later but I put a caveat on this in that I have what I assume is a leaking rear crank seal - the D2 has clocked 230,000k’s. I guess I can’t rule out the point raised in post #5 of the thread mentioned by the OP but that leak has been consistent. Is it worth adding these posts to the end of the Td5 Sump gasket ..... why they can leak thread to keep this info together?

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 27th February 2019, 02:32 PM

Holding the gasket in place while you fit it is fiddly. As suggested in a previous thread, I used cable ties in every second hole, put in half the bolts loosely then removed the cable ties and fitted the remaining bolts. See pic below.

Don't have any ties in the rear four holes. I had to move the one circled in red to the hole next to it. Made the job a lot easier.

**twr7cx** · 2nd March 2019, 05:06 PM

Originally Posted by Max Headroom 2.3m

Holding the gasket in place while you fit it is fiddly. As suggested in a previous thread, I used cable ties in every second hole, put in half the bolts loosely then removed the cable ties and fitted the remaining bolts. See pic below.

Don't have any ties in the rear four holes. I had to move the one circled in red to the hole next to it. Made the job a lot easier.

That's great, but nothing relevant in your post in regards to having to file the crush spacer down or not...

**Max Headroom 2.3m** · 2nd March 2019, 05:55 PM

Originally Posted by twr7cx

That's great, but nothing relevant in your post in regards to having to file the crush spacer down or not...

Yeh, apologies for adding info not directly relevant. My intention was to provide this tip to other newbies such as myself, who are on a steep learning curve and come across useful threads like this when searching info on TD5 sump gaskets. Wasn't trying to distract and appreciate you have way more experience.

As I indicated earlier, i didn't file down the VR brand gasket I used and don't appear to have a leak. It wasn't a continuous decision and I am not saying that it is not needed, I just wasn't aware of the issue at the time. I am interested to see what current best practice is as I have to do another TD5 sump gasket on my son's deefer.

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