Wow. Part of my brain just went *pop*... I read it twice. So did double damage... Not sure if my failure to comprehend that fully is due to the brain damage, or caused it...
Hi Blokes,
I was visiting a facebook site just recently and came across a wonderful informative piece of technical data that a lot of us may not be up to speed with as yet.
I will relay the information as stated, in the thread that I have just read, it goes something like this:-
Revving the engine to redline makes the pistons go all the way to the top of the engine where if you drive normally they don't wear out the top bit of the bore.
If you drive normally the pistons only go up and down a bit, not all the way, hence no wear on your block.
Since you do most of your driving in the 1500-3000rpm range, it pays to be careful and get that bit working good first up.blah blah blah,
This astounding article was placed on the WA DISCOVERY DEFENDER 4X4 FACEBOOK after being picked up off a Toyota forum or facebook page, it was titled "MUST BE A TOYOTA THING".
I think (or hope) that something got lost in the typing of the thread.
So remember to keep those revs up to redline on start up, you don't want uneven wear in your bore, do you?
Very amusing but scary ehy.
Regards:-
Patrick M
Wow. Part of my brain just went *pop*... I read it twice. So did double damage... Not sure if my failure to comprehend that fully is due to the brain damage, or caused it...
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
Despite your intent. Copying bad information only helps to spread it. People don’t read carefully enough and will believe this nonsense.
I think the 'wording' may be the problem.
If a vehicle is driven sedately for years and then over revved there might be a chance that the top ring gets broken on the wear ridge.
I remember a test being done by a motorcycle mag on two identical small bikes in the UK many years ago.
One driven 'normally' the other driven like it was stolen. There was a difference in the wear in the bores where the piston on the bike that was over revved traveled further (by a few thou).
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
thats why cars have a red line, so the piston doesnt come all the way out.
hahah
Current Cars:
2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
2008 RRS, TDV8
1995 VS Clubsport
Previous Cars:
2008 ML63, V8
2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
....I can confirm that revving a tired 3.5 to valve float on regular occasions can result in top ring breakage...
😁😁😁
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Ah. See! If they'd done that from day one that wouldn't have happened. Can't break the rings on the lip if it's not there.
* goes out and puts a brick on the accelerator of the TDV8 * #preventative maintenance # one fastidious owner
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
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