
Originally Posted by
Bigbjorn
Why not just use a ridge remover or hand scrapers to remove the ridge? Once was standard practice when rebuilding engines to take out the ridge. When done by hand it was an apprentice horror job. " Get your scrapers and knock the ridge out of those bores, young fellow. Should be finished by smoko or else."
That's a fun job, I did the 6-cylinder in my FFR some years back because the top of the block isn't at 90degrees to the bore (F-head) otherwise I could have used a proper ridge remover......
In the UK years ago I had an Austin Somerset that had the top ring on a piston break out of the piston and the pieces embedded in the piston crown. Found some NOS pistons the correct size but there was a wear ridge in the bores. As the pistons used 3 compression rings I left the top ones out, ran for years like that !

Originally Posted by
Toxic_Avenger
Is it news to people that steel is elastic?
Not extremely, but still needs to be taken into account.

Originally Posted by
workingonit
My understanding is that rods/pistons etc stretch a little at higher revs, ie reach higher into the top of the cylinder.
Do the parts actually 'stretch' or is it the 'clearance' in the little end, big end & crank bearings that come into play along with any 'whip' in the crank ?
The big end & crank bearings are hydrodynamic so need clearance for a film of oil, at high revs the forces may compress this film so the piston travel is further up the bore by a few thou.
On modern engines with modern oils you don't seem to get bore wear like you used to so maybe this is less of a problem nowadays ?
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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