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Thread: tdi 300 throw together tips and sequence.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    tdi 300 throw together tips and sequence.

    Ok so heres how you high speed throw together a tdi300.

    it assumes you have the engine out already

    grab the impact driver and strip it to the block and timing case cover. insert the timing pin if you thought of it do the stater and bar trick to undo the crank bolt if you dont have an NFA rattlegun.

    remove the glow plugs, remove the injector lines line up the engine for timing.

    mark the timing belt and pullies, rip out the bolts for the idlers rip out the belt and the idlers + the crank gear and cam gear

    use tech screws and a claw hammer to extract the cam seal leaver out the crank seal reinstall the new ones.

    remove the rocker shaft, use the bolts in position 2+4 as you lift it off posts 135 to pin the end rocker posts at position 1+5

    leave the push rods, lift the head use a rattle gun to rip out the head bolts in reverse sequence, 1/4, 1/2 turn on each in sequence and then spin them out, (start on the outermost bolt and work in in a spiral pattern if you dont have the sequence, its near enough)

    lay the head on its side pull out the old bolts, lay the head upside down onto the rocker cover to stop you from hitting the injector tops.

    clean the face, harness test using the ball bearing in a pen tube trick (measurements to follow)

    clean the deck.

    dry them

    new head gasket on the deck

    put the head back on.

    lube and insert new head bolts

    tighten to 5 and then 40nm using an inside out spiral or the correct sequence

    while thats happening, using a hammer and drift turn the welch plugs in the block in and yank them out with pliers.

    clean the holes ready for pasting

    tighten the head bolts 60 degrees in sequence.

    knock in new block core plugs

    clean the facings for the water pump housing and the thermostat housing, seal and replace the thermostat housing.

    tighten the head bolts in sequence another 60 degrees.

    slide on the new timing belt tensioner, crank gear and cam gear, finger tighten the bolt. brush clean the rest of the timing case

    cross mark and install the timing belt.

    tighten the middle 2 rows of 5 head bolts 20 more degrees (they are the ones inside the valve cover)

    install the timing belt idler and tension then secure the tensioner and idler (7-11nm on the tensioner pivot)

    install the rocker shaft and rockers, capture the 2 bolts as they lift out and reinstall in positions 2+4 use these to gently pull the shaft down.

    install the timing case cover.

    install the harmonic balancer injector pipes and glow plugs

    Done.

    takes, about an hour with a good 20 minutes of that going into cleaning the deck and head.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    inbuilt tooling

    use the idler pully from the timing belt to knock in your new welch plugs.

    the pully side is correct for the larger 2ish inch core plugs and the small protusion that mounts onto the block side of the pully is correct for the small ones in the head.

    cut the head off of one of the long water pump bolts and use it as the guide stud for replacing the accessories and water pump mounting plate(the one you took of to do theP gasket

    every banjo fitting has 2 seal rings, take them both off put them on the banjo bolt and the screw the bolt back into the fitting you took it from.

    the ones in the injectors are 11mm head, the glow plugs are 8mm for the wiring nut and 10mm for the body hex

    silver anti sieze on the glow plugs and water pump bolts

    STAG for the core plugs P gasket and water pump gasket, Hylomar #3 for the last 2 if you use the paper gasket

    when seating the new crank gear use the old crank gear and the bolt from the harmonic balancer to pull it into its correct seating position.

    the o ring for the seperator in the cover housing is a special 4mm one, if you dont have a replacement be liberal with turntable grease or if you're a masochist stag, ATV blue. wipe the inside of the cover with oil first.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Thanks Dave - some good detail there.

    One thing I will highlight is to be very careful when using a tech screw and claw hammer to extract the old cam and/or crank shaft seal.

    If the tech screw is not smack bang in the centre of the seal surface you will score the alloy hosing as you screw in.

    Also, can you provide more detail on "harness test using the ball bearing in a pen tube trick" when cleaning the surface of the head?

    Cheers
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

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