Thread: CD 175 Rebuilders

Originally Posted by PhilipA

As I guess you know, all you have to do to the spanner is to bend the head about 20degrees.
Aren't they 1/2 or 9/16 AF?
I think I still have mine from 20 years ago.
Regards Philip A

You are probably correct - but 13mm fits spot on. It is 11 years since I had had the carbs off the manifold and I cannot remember what I did then.

Cheers

Garry

Ok carbs are off but not dissembled at this stage - looks like the mud wasps are the culprits.

So for those who may have to remove the carbs form their 3.5 in the future - it can be done without removing linkages (except the one that joins the carbs) so adjustments do not change. The nuts are 1/2" which is exactly the same as 13mm so both are interchangable (as is 14mm and 9/16th).

Now normal ring/open end spanners will not fit and you will have to modify some. Usual crap Brit poor design but is doable.

So you will need to go to either SuperCheap or to Bunnings and go to their cheap spanner buckets - I went to Bunnings and bought 3 13mm and 3 1/2" spanners for $1.50 each - they are cheap for a reason.

So here is what I then made.

IMG_20190424_162944

The top spanner is a standard 13mm spanner - you can do a couple of the nuts with it.

Next is a slightly shortened spanner - needed for the front left nuts where the top radiator hose is in the way - note the ground open ends to make the teeth thinner to get in tight.

The next is a stumpy needed for the very bottom bolts - needs to be short enough to swing under the carbs and not touch the engine - if the nut is tight then the shortened spanner can levered undone.

The last spanner is modified so it can get to the bottom nuts from underneath the carbs - depending on the position of the nuts it can be easier to use this spanner rather than the stumpy.

A strong magnetic pickup is helpful to not loose the nuts and spring washers.

Hope this helps - I last did this job 11 years ago and all I can remember is that it was a pain to do which it is somewhat.

Garry

Yep mud wasps - they must have been small as the initial nest was about 5cm deep inside the rubber fuel line not at the end as they usually are - rubber and the smell of oil/petrol normally puts them off.

So when the fuel pump activated it pushed part of the nest into the chamber just above the float valve of the first carb where it blocked the valve so all fuel with the rest of the mud nest went to the other carb and blocked the other float valve - so not allowing fuel into both carbs.

The muck stayed at the top of both float valves as an almost solid block and did not go through the valve - just blocked them. Bottom end was relatively clean with just a little fine red dust in the bowl.

So going back together and we will see - experience has shown that if all goes well, you have done something wrong and you will have to do things over.

Garry