Thread: MAF in a TD5

Originally Posted by ChookD2

Vehicle is a 2000 D2 TD5 Auto

So, I have been doing some research after I found my Air Flow reading 0.0 on my Nanocom. Which I assumed meant my MAF was maffed.
Anyway, I checked resistance as suggested and found some good numbers so then went looking at wiring harness and found nothing. This leads me to believe my MAF may or may not be maffed.
So I unplugged the MAF and found no change, which again leads me to the conclusion that my MAF is maffed.
Now I have read that the only thing the the MAF does is control the EGR in an EU2 engine. As my vehicle has the EGR eliminated (by previous owner) this leads me to the question.....

Does it really matter if my MAF is maffed or if it is connected or not as the ECU just defaults to a set value to control something that is not there?

I'm confused.

On an eu2 it shouldn't matter too much, but it would be a good idea to get the egr turned off in the ecu, but I'm guessing you have an msb ECU which will make it harder, is it remapped?

Cheers
James

Originally Posted by shack

On an eu2 it shouldn't matter too much, but it would be a good idea to get the egr turned off in the ecu, but I'm guessing you have an msb ECU which will make it harder, is it remapped?

Cheers
James

Yes, MSB ECU. No, not remapped. I do have a NNN to go in but haven't got around to that yet. Will be reprogramming that one with a suitable EU2 flash to eliminate all those mystery faults the emerge from changing ECUs. Have studied @Offtrack thread on that subject.

I haven't done this yet as I'm a little concerned about bricking the NNN, not a cheap item. Anyway, will have another read of how to do it and just do it.

I'm not overly concerned about the MAF as the car drives fine and has a resonable fuel economy. It is just confusing, does it work, doesn't it work, does it matter, doesn't it matter, should read these number, or those numbers,......

Thanks for the reply.

Check fuse F2 in the engine bay just to be ruled out as 0 MAF reading can be caused by that which would reduce power a bit cos it is the feed for the wastegate modulator too. Also as long as the EGR is not mapped out even on EU2 a good MAF can make a slight difference cos my presumption is that it acts somehow through the EGR management's "back door" and the EGR has to do with fuelling too... i can't explain how that's Offtrack's area of expertise but the fact is that my de-EGR'd EU2 ran better with a new genuine MAF than with it unplugged that's for sure, confirmed by better EGT readings too... though IMO better drive it with MAF unplugged than with some cheap aftermarket.

Thanks for the fuse remedy, have not seen that mentioned anywhere in my search. Will check it in the morning.
If I'm gunna change the ECU then I'm guessing I will probably need a working MAF to compliment that anyway.
These things just continue to test our powers of research, patience and mechanical aptitude.
It is fun though.

Originally Posted by ChookD2

Thanks for the fuse remedy ....

More specifically, that'll be F2 in the engine fuse box, not the drivers side fuse box.

F2 on the interior fuse box does the fuel flap.

Originally Posted by AK83

More specifically, that'll be F2 in the engine fuse box, not the drivers side fuse box.

F2 on the interior fuse box does the fuel flap.

I thought i was specific enough, i quote myself:

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Check fuse F2 in the engine bay ......

Fuse is good, so guessing the MAF is ..err.. maffed.
For now I am running with it unplugged and after some further kms it does feel a smidgen more resposive.
I'll change the ECU and see what happens.

Originally Posted by ChookD2

I'll change the ECU and see what happens.

I hope you dont want to just swap the ECUs cos a not remapped NNN will have Eu3 map in it which would not work well on Eu2