Thread: Replacing pwr steering pump - TD5 Defender - Advice

On my Td5 I changed the injector harness. The engine harness was then sprayed with copious electrical contact cleaner. I then gave the computer module a good spray (removed the orange gasket at the plug first). All wiped down with a rag. Repeated the process to the engine harness a few days later. I have had no further oil problems.
I have been told that when servicing the truck I should check the plug where engine harness meets injector harness as replacing doesn't mean it wont happen again.

David.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dhumphri &#064; May 4 2006, 08&#58;50 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Just wondering if there any tricks / gotchas for replacing a power steering pump on a TD5 Defender. Have read the relevant part of the Rave CD and special tools are mentioned for removing viscous fan, will I get stuck if I dont have these.
On another note I changed the injector ECU harness the other night and the vehicle is now performing much better(having intermittant performance problems). Am thinking of removing the main wiring harness to the red ECU connector on weekend and stripping down to thoroughly clean as I have had the oil in harness issues. Has anyone done this - is pulling the harness out a massive sh*%t of a job.
Any advice appreciated...Daz
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No need to remove viscous fan, box will drop down(with a lot of difficulity) when steering arm and the like disconnected. I had my inner gaurd out at the time which helped. It&#39;s a bitch of a job.
Are you replacing the box or replacing the seals. Box only needs replacing if freeplay in steering is encountered(usually worm drive). If replacing bottom seals, check sector shaft for scooring, if so seals will chew out, don&#39;t bother.

In regards to ECU there is an upgrade injector seal from landrover(apparently), and move ECU to cubby box not hard(mine in dash) or put up with everything running down into it

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(shepstar &#064; May 12 2006, 11&#58;02 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
No need to remove viscous fan, box will drop down(with a lot of difficulity) when steering arm and the like disconnected. I had my inner gaurd out at the time which helped. It&#39;s a bitch of a job.
Are you replacing the box or replacing the seals. Box only needs replacing if freeplay in steering is encountered(usually worm drive). If replacing bottom seals, check sector shaft for scooring, if so seals will chew out, don&#39;t bother.

In regards to ECU there is an upgrade injector seal from landrover(apparently), and move ECU to cubby box not hard(mine in dash) or put up with everything running down into it
[/b][/quote]


He is talking pump not steering box.

Thanks for the advice guys, the job turned out to be dead easy - had the pump out and replaced in 1.5 hours.
The worst bit was the mess made when bleeding the old fluid out of the system.

I have replaced with the expensive fully synthetic Castrol ATF (has a Z on the end of name) and this has really made the steering system smoother and quieter. Hardly any groan in the steering now.