Thread: Cut & Polishing a Car - Newbie Question

Originally Posted by 4xsama

Hi All,


Can I get some advice on the full system, what to get, what to avoid etc. Also, is a buffer worth it or just hand polish?

You have most of it. I would be wary of buffers, as most of the ones you see have far too high RPM and it is easy to burn through the paint, especially if you are a novice. I used to have a Rupes buffer and it only did 700 RPM max. God knows where that is now. Thing is, work slowly. Fast results are usually poor results. And remember, paint is measured in microns, so there ain't much to play with.

This guy is probably a bit higher level for your needs, but he knows his stuff.

YouTube

Depends on how badly deteriorated the paint is. If it just needs a cut and polish then good old Repo or Kitten No.2 is adequate.

Do a bit of homework on the cost of having it done professionally. Might be economical given you may have to purchase tools/equipment and supplies to do it.

To get really good results depends on a lot of things - paint condition and thickness, equipment and polishes and your skill. You haven't said what vehicle you're selling or what paint is involved. A recent model car with pearl black paint is a lot different to old school white acrylic.

I'm not by any means an expert but have been using an orbital buffer and Menzerna polishes to good effect for a while now with a few different vehicles I've owned.

Best way to tackle it with minimal outlay to best effect is to get some claybar to remove pollutants, tree sap etc from the paint and then hand polish with a good quality polish, then wax. It will take you several hours to do properly and I haven't gone though all the steps involved. Should cost you less than $100.

Ideally, you'd go for a good 240v buffer and pads, which is around $300 and up; add about $80+ for polish/waxes. Also a few $ for 2000-grit wet-and-dry sandpaper. And a lot of time to hone your skills. Probably not what you want to do here.

If you're only interested in getting the car sold just pay the $400 or so for a paint correction if the paint can be saved or if you feel that's not worth it then just wash and dry the car. Cut-and-polish job as you described might work if an old acrylic solid colour but with a dark metallic might end up looking even worse.

Originally Posted by pop058

Do a bit of homework on the cost of having it done professionally. Might be economical given you may have to purchase tools/equipment and supplies to do it.

Got a quote for $350. I think I'll go that way. Car goes under a cover until time to sell

I like to give ours a good waxing (Mothers something if my memory is correct) twice a year, if I was still a boy racer possibly more often......
Washing is done when it's dirty or if we've been near the beach in which case the underneath gets a good bath, more water sprayed under there than on top. When flogging the Puma I got the bull bar looking good by using a black cut and polish stuff then black polish. Came up great but not sure how long the gleam would have lasted.
AlanH.

When polishing anything it is good practice to get some blue painters tape and tape off around any porous parts and trim where it butts against a painted surface.

This is more so the D3 with unpainted black wheel arches and door handles. When the buffer (or even hand polishing) hits these items they show the polish scuff and it’s very hard to remove it.

The tape allows you to polish right to the panel edge without fear.