Thread: Cleveland 302 Carburettor Dies under Load

Hello All,

I wonder if the additional letter on the end of a model number has great significance?

The advertised Tridon Ignition Coil says that this one fits Ford Fairmont 4.9 V8 302ci (XA,XB,XC) a TIC034R

As per the photograph of Bluey's currently fitted coil it is a TIC034RB.. I wonder what the addition of the "B" on the end of the code means?

Each model code is taken off photographs so it is not a spelling error. Would this mean that the TIC034RB is a different coil and not suited for the XA 302?

Details of coil accessed 7th April 2020 from,
Tridon Ignition Coil TIC034R fits Ford Fairmont 4.9 V8 302ci (XA,XB,XC) | eBay

Kind regards
Lionel

I was tuning Holleys back in the good old days of the eighties and selling car parts for lots of models of cars. The ford V8 coild are all the same it needs to be a resistor coil and use a resistor. The resistor was often built into the wiring loom. The car would start with 12 volts to the coil when the key was in start position and then when key released the coil would get a lower voltage usually around 10 volts. Use a multimeter to check.

The Holleys had lots of problems and will need a clean and a kit. If the accelerator pump has dried out you will have a big flatspot as you accelerate.
A carby kit will rectify this. They are easy carbs to do and there should be plenty of info on you tube as to how to set them up and check float level etc.
The other problem an old V8 will have is possibly a crook fuel pump , the easiest way to check this is to use a fuel pump tester to check the pressure or we would use a long hose and see how far the fuel pumps out being cautious not to put fuel onto the distributor battery etc as this will cause a fire.
If you have rubber fuel line near the distributor replace it before it leaks all over the distributor, this was the main reason of Falcon fires especially with LPG conversions , The fuel line on top of the engine should be all steel with no rubber as the factory made them.

Ian
Bittern

main jet and carby pump with dodgy electrics would be my goto on this one..

350 kits are easyish to get (ebay) and for that era motor just about any non ballasted coil will get you to running but a coil that requires a ballast resistor will do you better.

rip the wiring out and while you're getting the donk sorted use ye olde hotwire technique to get you to running so you can get the mechanical side of the dizzy and the carby sorted.

IIRC a 70w headlight bulb can serve as a suitable ballast resistor if your ballasted coil is getting too hot while your playing with the engine.

Hello Ian and Justin,

Thank you for your replies. Apparently an overhaul kit was put through the Holley carburettor.

I am a novice to Holley carburettors - I know a very tiny bit about Stromberg carburettors for 202 Holdens and the 175CD Strombergs for Series 3 six cylinder 2.6 litres.

I am cruising youTube and some different forums about information about the Holley carburettor. As yet I would not know how things look from a quick observation. Stuff that an experienced eye could pick up in a second.

The previous owner was able to advance further than more prior owners who could not get the motor started or running at all. Looks like it just going to be little dolly steps in progress as my knowledge of this carburettor builds.

Kind regards
Lionel

Hello All,

Is there much difference with the components and set up of Holley Carburettors for the 351 Windsor Ford engine, compared to the Holley carburettor for the 302 Cleveland motor?

There seems to be much more information on YouTube about the 351 than the 302 carburettors.

Am I wasting my time watching 351 carburettor rebuild clips?

Kind regards
Lionel

Hello All,

I am just wondering do you buy a battery to match the engine: a 302 Cleveland Ford Falcon XA motor. Or cater for the possible load from the body of the truck itself and all its supported current demands? I would like to know which motor and vehicle to look up in the battery book to select the correct battery. The joy of transplants in motor vehicles! I also want to check that the battery that is currently fitted is actually the correct one. Yes, I have been caught out before.

The van was moved on after the second to me previous owner could not get the engine started. The immediately previous owner to me did manage to get the engine to start. However, no doubt it had a lot of cranking load on the battery in the process to get the engine started.

The battery was cranked on the van quite a bit to get it on and off the transport vehicles - so I went to recharge it. That was yesterday morning and three different battery chargers later. Two of which are charge then maintenance to trickle charge cycle. I just tried the dedicated recharger - without trickle. None of the three has moved beyond the "charging" stage. It does appear to indeed be a recently purchased new battery as stated by the previous owner.

However, the battery was not clamped down. I noticed this morning that it is a sealed battery and there is a clear liquid leaking out at the base of the positive battery terminal. Bouncing around on the back of an earth moving float from Sydney to Brisbane and then a car trailer to Bundaberg with the battery unsecured might not have done it much good.

I will take the battery to get tested. However I am assuming the worse. A new battery should recharge in over 24 hours. At least it should be in the flashing amber light cycle of being half charged. The lights on each of the three charges - which have all been tested remain fix on red.

So which battery: to suit engine only? Or to suit vehicle manufacturer's recommendation? In the past I have matched battery to engine.

Kind regards
Lionel

Hello All,

Well my How to Rebuild a Small-Block Ford book arrived in the post today. It is one in a series of American Workbench: How To, books.

I do not know if being an American book makes a difference. However, they recommend a 4160 Holley 600 CFM as a perfect fit for a small-block Ford (2008, p. 63). Bluey has a Holley 350 CMF. But then again ... Holleys are a made in America product.

Although according to a mate who is a rev-head and used to build racing cars from tubes of steel and mechanical components, suggested that the 350 CFM Holley is a very good unit.

The book goes on to say Any of the Holley 4150/4160 carburettors works well on the small block Ford Just get your sizing and jetting right in the process.

Maybe the 350 was selected for slow and steady since it is fitted to an industrial van rather than the speed and performance of a racing machine? Perhaps - unlike me - the person who converted the motor from an International to the Ford 302 Cleveland actually knew what they were doing??? Hopefully, it wasn't just a spare carby that they had lying around so they just chucked it on.

I would just like to know what the carburettor for the 302 should be out of interest. I just want to keep the engine running and moving under its own power until i can put in a diesel motor for more economical towing.

Kind regards
Lionel

Originally Posted by rick130

Sounds like a blocked accelerator pump circuit.
Could be just a buggered accelerator pump.
The old WW Strommy is a good carby and easy to work on.
Holden used them too.

Yes, first place to look after checking the float level. Doesn't really matter what engine the carb is on.