My Freelander uses the same security system and the same remote - range is about 4m. You are right about the dry joints in the fob - I have had to solder mine twice in the last 18 months.
Garry
I have a problem with poor sensitivity for the remote keyfob on a '96 SI Discovery - it works at no more than 1.5 - 2m from the vehicle. It's a 315MHz 2-button remote with the receiver in the green box above the passenger side footwell. I suspect the problem lies with the receiver's antenna.
The Rx antenna exits the alarm on pin26 of C225 (the larger connector of the 2). In some SI Disco's the antenna is 150mm of stiff yellow wire dangling from the connector behind the kick panel. In others, mine included, the yellow wire disappears into the loom heading for the driver's side and, according to the (Rave CD) wiring diagram, arrives at the multifunction unit (C204 pin 18) behind the fascia fuse panel. Suffice it to say that after considerable effort and skinned knuckles I am positive that it does not arrive there (the wire colour on pin 18 is wrong and a continuity check with a multi-meter confirms there is no connection.
I suspected it might head up the driver's side windscreen pillar but this was a dead end (and I now have to repair the plastic tabs on the pillar trim!). Can anyone enlighten me as to where the antenna wire does go in this model? Can anyone offer any help on this subject?
On a positive note, I have some tips I've discovered (er... no pun intended) along the way, which might help others:
Sensitivity is severely compromised if there are any dry or broken solder joints in the key fob - check the battery holder tabs and the solder tabs on the surface-mount pushbutton switches (rock the switches while inspecting with a jeweller's eye-glass). Repair requires a fine tipped soldering iron, a steady hand and great eye-sight. Before fixing these problems my remote would only work when held over the gap between the front door and the front guard (which gives a clue as to where the antenna probably lies!).
The previous owner assures me that I've restored operation to as good as he had at new, and despite complaints to the dealer under warranty they were never able to improve it for him. I've also been told that this is typical, if not excellent, performance for the 315MHz remotes, and I should be grateful. However a friend with a '95 SI Disco and the same alarm has at least 15m range so I'm not inclined to believe that. I can understand that a UHF remote will always have better range since the Tx antenna in the remote will always be far too short to be efficient at 315MHz due to the limited size but this is ridiculous. There has to be a fault and I'd be very grateful for any help anyone can give me to track it down.
And yes, you can assume I'm a tech, and I have a fetish for cleaning oil spots off the driveway (I've owned LandRovers since I left school in 1974).
Thanks in anticipation .....
GrahamH
'65 SIIa 88" Hard-top, Rego DW622, 186 Holden, 4.3 diffs (she's still back in NZ)
'88 4-door Rangie (long gone)
'96 Disco SI 3.9V8i (LPG) Manual (Inspector Rex's kennel)
'03 Disco SII TD5 Auto (the serious camping car)
'15 Disco 4 3.0Lt TDV6 (was a dog-hair free zone - not now!!!)
My Freelander uses the same security system and the same remote - range is about 4m. You are right about the dry joints in the fob - I have had to solder mine twice in the last 18 months.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Do a test. Just solder a wire onto the existing at the footwell and tie it up to the passenger grab handle at the top of the door. If it improves install it in the passenger "A" pillar and part way along the roof over the door. Another trick is to put the blip under and in contact with your chin. You may look stupid, but it works a treat. I assume you have replaced the blip battery?
Trev.
I'll vouch for the chin thing on both counts !
It does work !
It does make you look like a d*ck !
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
at 315MHz your antenna should be around 1000mm long. Have you tried disconnecting the existing antenna and reconnecting one metre of new cable to see if that improves it? You may have a break in your existing antenna and therefore shortening the antenna and increasing the Rx frequency.
if you want to get a bit tricky you could get some coax cable (say RG174 at 1000mm long) and strip 500mm of outer insulation off. Then fold the 500mm braid back over the remaining unremoved outer insulation. This gived you what is called a half-wave dipole antenna. All you have to do then is to terminate the centre conductor (isolated form the brade of course) to your existing antenna terminal and you should have increased range.
I had this argument with Landrover Australia when i bought the vehicle and quized them as to why my mothers Cheap korean proton with factory fitted remote locking would work in every enviroment through walls under buildings you name it and the one fitted to my landy, which is supposibly of better quality than a proton, rarley works outside of a 1m radius and quite often not at all. Landrover wrote back avoiding the issue and said that i had not supplied my vin number so they where unable to help me. As this was after a dozen or more warranty claims that i fought to get done i was sick of the lack of customer service and didnt get back to them, I have since installed a Cobra alarm with remote locking and wouldnt look back it has never faultered and works like my mothers one did. GREAT
Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try the chin trick next time I have the truck out of the garage. As an RF tech I have difficulty with the idea that this would work, as the human skull is too small a cavity to become resonant until around 400MHz, which is where I would expect it to effectively modify the radiation pattern of the remote's little antenna. But I won't knock the idea before I've tried it. I'll let you know the outcome.
My next step was indeed going to be to disconnect the antenna wire from C225 as several of you have suggested, and use a length of wire which is closer to 1/4 wavelength at 315MHz. I like the idea of making a dipole out of co-ax - I'll try both at the weekend if the Adelaide weather permits. Thanks for the suggestions - I'll let you know how it works out.
I'm still curious as to where the wire that is connected to C225 Pin 26 goes to in the loom. I presume no-one else has had any luck tracing it out either. I've looked at several wrecked SI Disco's but the looms were either still too enclosed or too burnt up to help me. I found a couple with the 150mm tail dangling off them too but that doesn't help me with my puzzle. I have found a yellow wire dangling behind the multi-function unit but it is apparently associated with the "Saudi Connector" (the mind boggles!) and is not connected to C225 P26.
Something else I've found along the way is that the fuse layout for the interior or fascia fuse box in the Electrical section of the Workshop Manual (2nd Edition) on the RaveCD has an error. On page 804 of 873, the designation numbering for 'C' Satellite 1 fuse module goes 1 to 6 from right to left (as for 'B' Satellite 2 module). In fact Satellite 1 numbers from left to right (the diagram on the fascia drop-down cover panel is correct). This had me chasing my tail for several hours when I had blown fuse 1 which feeds the anti-theft alarm module.
Thanks again for the suggestions - I'll let you know how they work after the weekend.![]()
GrahamH
'65 SIIa 88" Hard-top, Rego DW622, 186 Holden, 4.3 diffs (she's still back in NZ)
'88 4-door Rangie (long gone)
'96 Disco SI 3.9V8i (LPG) Manual (Inspector Rex's kennel)
'03 Disco SII TD5 Auto (the serious camping car)
'15 Disco 4 3.0Lt TDV6 (was a dog-hair free zone - not now!!!)
Hi Graham
Nice handwriting mate,go to the front of the class,but dont take your books because you wont be there long.
SORRY,all jokes aside.
My disco2 remote aint much better,even using the "new unused key",4 or 5 meters max.
A few years back we went to Melb for a holiday,we had a magnaroid hire car,my boy who was 4 at the time loved the remote for the locking, it worked 1/2 way across a carpark.I explained to him at the time that it was a special feature as people who drive these puss buckets need to press the button and the car winks at them to let them know which one is theirs.
The boy is now 12,and the Disco2 has the remote.As kids do he repeats that lesson learnt in Melb,and says dont Landy owners know their own cars either????
I got him quicksmart,"of course boy,the Landy remote only works when you are standing next to the exact Landrover" "COOL" says the boy![]()
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Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
OK Chaps, I have made some progress on this issue. My apologies to those of you who have been hanging out for an answer, as I’ve been distracted with other issues for a couple of weeks.
First, the short term solution of holding the key-fob remote to the chin to increase its range. I approached my experiments to investigate this with a high level of scepticism – I have a background as a technician and for me, this falls into the realms of pseudo-science. Much to my surprise, however, I found that holding the remote to my chin did, in fact, appreciably improve the range of the remote – generally from about 1.5m to 2m out to 3m to 4m. At this stage I can’t provide a satisfactory explanation for why this works, but I have a colleague who has a deep understanding of these things and I’ll try and get an answer and post it later.
Despite the fact that holding the remote to my chin helped, I simply can’t bring myself to wander around a car park with a keyfob to my chin in public – not in daylight anyway!![]()
I got the chance to have a close look at the Disco with good range for the security remote owned by a friend of mine, and found it has a third variation on the location of the antenna for the theft alarm module (the other two are the short tail hanging down behind the passenger side kick panel, and the wire disappearing into the loom heading for the driver’s side as in my vehicle). This ’95 Disco has the antenna wire encased in a length of protective sleeving and heading up the passenger-side windscreen A-pillar and then across the top of the windscreen. This is pretty much how I expected the antenna wire to be run in all Disco’s and I was surprised to find that, apparently, most aren't.![]()
Back in my car, I removed the sun visors and front roof console from the headlining and this allowed me to feed a stiff wire from the hole in the centre of the headlining (above the rear view mirror) to draw a length of 1mm2 (yellow insulated) wire from the opening for the LH side sun visor mount to the centre, and then did the same for the RH side and used the latter as a draw wire to pull the first wire right across the windscreen. I removed the plastic trim on the driver’s side A-pillar (more on that later) and formed a loop in the end of the wire at the top of the door pillar and fed a cable tie around the steel tab which holds the wiring loom in place at the top of the pillar and used this to secure the end of my new antenna wire.
I then used the stiff wire to pull a draw wire up from the top of the passenger side A-pillar to the hole for the sun visor and used that to pull the end of the yellow antenna wire back down to the top of the pillar. It was then quite easy to tuck the wire in behind the plastic trim on the A-pillar and feed it down to the kick panel trim and around the back of the passenger-side foot-well to bring it into the loom to connector C225 on the alarm module. A quick snip with the side-cutters and crimping some connectors onto the wires now had my new antenna wire connected. (I’ve explained in detail how I ran the wire to help anyone wishing to do this avoid some of the dead ends I ran into on the way - you should be able to do this in about 2 hours.)
And has it worked? You bet your skinned knuckles it has. I have yet to perform a set of (objective) comparative tests in an open area but early indications are that it has increased the range of the security system to around 5m to 6m to each side and to the front of the vehicle.It still has very poor range to the rear but this isn’t too surprising considering where the antenna wire is located; it is, after all, tucked in behind the vehicle’s metal roof and is therefore somewhat screened from the outside world.
If you were having the windscreen replaced it might be possible to run an antenna wire in the rubber seal and this should provide a bigger improvement in range as it would bring the wire out from behind the metal screen of the roof – I’m not sure that this would be practical however.
And the A-pillar trim? Well, can anyone tell me how to remove these trims without breaking off the 3 plastic tabs that lock into the spring clips in the pillar? And having broken the damn things off, my hunch is that using the adhesive for gluing PVC drain-pipe together is going to be a more permanent solution than using a cyanoacrylate (instant) adhesive. I’m also considering bolting some metal tabs onto the trim in place of the broken bits with M3 hardware. Any thoughts anyone?
GrahamH
'65 SIIa 88" Hard-top, Rego DW622, 186 Holden, 4.3 diffs (she's still back in NZ)
'88 4-door Rangie (long gone)
'96 Disco SI 3.9V8i (LPG) Manual (Inspector Rex's kennel)
'03 Disco SII TD5 Auto (the serious camping car)
'15 Disco 4 3.0Lt TDV6 (was a dog-hair free zone - not now!!!)
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