Were you using 20w50 previously or is this the 1st time? I have heard of this happening & it's the lighter oil that is the cause.
In your case who knows, but could be?
Well....all was going well![]()
replaced sump gasket and transfer case front output seal...2 more leaks down![]()
Filled er up with some 20w50, new z9 filter, started er up, cough cough splutter(eventually...next on list to fix) , oil pressure came up ...no leaks ...all is good .......
![]()
Cleaning up the huge mess in my shed then the damn thing starts tapping it head off in the right bank![]()
Turn "it' off , kick it in the guts again...all good![]()
Park it outside idling merrily away and the damn thing starts again !![]()
I'm thinking tappets...but god knows why it started all of a sudden , i mean sump gasket is nothing high tech , same as oil filter...the only thing i have changed (maybe ) is the oil viscosity
Any one have any thoughts...ideas....fixes????
it was all going real well till then![]()
Were you using 20w50 previously or is this the 1st time? I have heard of this happening & it's the lighter oil that is the cause.
In your case who knows, but could be?
Do you have any oil pressure, some of these donks don't pick-up the oil easy if the oil has been drained for some time with the sump off. Did you prime the new Z9 oil prior to installing.
Other thing it might be is the oil filter it self, I tried a cheap replacement once on my RR 3.9 and it did the same thing, replaced it with a Ryco and all was good. Apparently the One way valve in the filter was NFG.
Damn thing stopped doing it now![]()
I dont know what oil was in it b4, i've only had the rangie a month or so
OIl pressure light went off after about 3 seconds but yeah..was a bit too slack to prime the filter
Its a valvoline oil filter so who knows about the quality
Took it for a squirt down the road(neighbours love me) few donuts down in the dirt and yeah it makes no more noise than normal...give it time it will start again
Runs betterish...bit more poke...must be something to do with having the front propshaft off while i replace the uni's lol![]()
That was my imediate thought.... The one way valve is one of the reasons I only ever use genuine filters.Originally Posted by RR5L
M
still no guarantee the anti-drain back valve will work. I've seen and heard virtually every make available have a crook one occaisonally, including bloody expensive Donaldson's with full synthetic media that cost close to A$30 that is an equivalent to a Ryco Z9.Originally Posted by camel_landy
Friggin frustrating.
getting back to the lifter, it doesn't take much to let one bleed down and make it ticky. The tiniest bit of crud can do it.
If it does it again there is a cleaner that can be added (and I hate additives). A bloke in Melbourne imports it and it does work. It is an ester (similar to the base fluid in an expensive synthetic like Redline or Motul, but in this case is a Lanolin (yep, think sheep and wool!) ester) that tends to soften and pick up bits of carbon, etc. It's left in for a few thousand km as it works very slowly (which is good as large chunks aren't dissloged to block oil galleries and lifters) It also tends to soften and reguvenate seals, although it can make the buggers leak worse when it cleans the crud from around them.
I've always used the Ryco Z89A since the 1st non-stealer service & never had a problem with noise or low initial pressure.
They are a tad smaller in length than the LR Genuine Part but it gets changed every 6 months regardless of KM travelled.
False economy? Maybe, but I have always been led to believe that V8s don't like dirty oil, so that's what I do.
Last edited by 4bee; 6th June 2006 at 07:27 AM.
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