Thread: The Series III Lives!

Sorry mate but can't answer any of your technical questions, however after just having my SII start puttering a week ago I just thought I'd offer my congratulations

Great feeilng aint it?

Originally Posted by Grizzly_Adams

Sorry mate but can't answer any of your technical questions, however after just having my SII start puttering a week ago I just thought I'd offer my congratulations

Great feeilng aint it?

Too right! Thanks Grizzly.

Well done DiscoDave.
Did you put a carby kit in??? Fairly important as the diagpram splits causing it to run really POO,using oil in the dashpot will confirm its split.
A kit shouldnt cost much.
I had an immaculate 2A traytop with the landy 6,althouh I sold it for heaps more than I paid I WISH I STILL HAD THE OLD GIRL!!!!
Its fairly important to keep the valve clearances done on the 6,it runs much better and uses less fuel if you keep them in check.And remember,the inlet valves are in the head and the exhaust are in the block(2 adjustment areas).Its an easy job just follow the manual,making sure the engine is hot first,ACTUALLY READ THE MANUAL,something at the back of my head is saying one set is done hot the other cold,ITS BEEN A FAIR WHILE
Goodluck,keep us informed.
Andrew

G'day DiscoDave

Has your Series 111 "Bumpy" got a 2.6 Litre 6 Cylinder Motor ? If so it would possibly have one of three types of Carb, "Stromberg 175 CD" S.U. of similar type or the Zenith 175CD2S type,the Stromberg and Zenith both have a Diaphragm in them, and also require "Light Oil" in the "Dash Pot" that is where the little plastic knob is on the top of the Carb, it has to have at least enough oil to cover the little piston below the cap, somebody with knowledge of Carby model Rangies will have a better knowledge than me, Ignition Points: set at 0.014-0.016 thous of an inch(35-40 mm) Spark Plugs: 29-32 Thous, Ignition Timing: I can't find a quick reference for that but it is similar to the 4 cylinder with Anti Pollution #@**^$ on it that was 3 degrees AFTER top Dead Centre, or start off at TDC. and work 3 Degees either way, This is done with the Vacuum line DISCONNECTED, if you have not got access to a Timing Light, you can Static set it up by lining up the timing mark,and with the No 1 piston on ign stroke,and timing mark at TDC, (rotor almost at No1 plug lead) with the ign ON loosen and slightly move the Distributor so that the points JUST open, that will be pretty well TDC without a timing light.

Hope that is of some help

LandyAndy:
I did put a carbi-kit in just before it was "abandoned" so yes diaphragm is good although getting the lip to key in with the cut out in the carbi body was a bit hit-and-miss. How does the oil confirm a split?
Thanks for the tip on the valve clearances, I will check them. Thanks also for explaining why it only has one valve per cylinder.
I will try to do better at RTFM.

UncleHo:
Yep, Bumpy has a 2.6L 6cyl with a Zenith carbi with the honking big piston which pulls the needle valve up. Thanks for the data on ignition timing - I didn't know you do it with the vacuum line disconnected - that's a big help.
I DO have a timing light. My distributor has an external adjustor and I just guessed the setting (hey, it runs!). Do I use that to adjust the timing, or turn the whole dizzy, or doesn't matter which?

I really wanted to know if their was a heirarchy of adjustments, i.e. there is no point in setting adjustment C until adjustment G is right. And whether the disconnected anti-pollution stuff will have any effect on the timing.That sort of thing.

Thanks both for your replies.

I have read that the six's were a bit notorious for burning the exhaust valves out.

One reason given was that the gap of 12 thou. was too tight & 15 thou. was more like it & also run it a bit lean.

Make of that what you will.

G'day DiscoDave.
Yes, you have to set "A" before "B" as that then gives you best results

No1 Clean and adjust Spark Plugs. & check lead condition.

No 2 Clean and adjust Points, 0.014-0.016.

No3 Check that the Vacc Advance mechanism is working, with Dist cap off, Suck on vacc hose at carby end, a piece of plastic tube added to the Vacc hose makes it easier and less unpleasent tasting while sucking you should see the points plate move a little, and return when you stop the points plate should return, that will indicate that the Vacc Advance unit is working OK, reconnect to Carby.

No4 With the timing light attached to No1 lead as close to the plug as possible, And Vacc tube blocked at loose end, small screw or match, start motor, observe where the mark on the front pulley is in relation to the timing pointer,and if it is Advanced or Retarded, If it is only slightly out, you can adjust it by the Knerled knob (micro adjustment) if you cannot attain it, slightly loosen the pinch clamp at the base of the Distributor, and move it slightly clockwise or anticlockwise,it only needs a few "mm" of movement, if you have an assistant with the timing light, you can do this with the motor running, DO NOT FORGET to RETIGHTEN the CLAMP As I had my Dist slip out of the clamp on the 2a at 90+ Kph going to a dog trial instant NO NOISE !!!!!! then had to retime the engine by the side of the highway


If you have removed the anti -pollution stuff, make sure that you don't have any open holes to the carb, that little bent rubber elbow comes to mind, plug it with an old bolt jammed down it, the only other tubes/holes should be the Brake booster hose (Carb base to booster), Vacc tube to Dist. that should get it running reasonably well, a cup full of KERO in 20 litres of fuel will aid in freeing up any sticky valves
Bung- Tiddley.

so.....whats the latest on this......?
have you got it purring yet...?