Thread: IPF "Fatboy" globes

Currently run these in the fender. Hard to rate but I think they are an improvement over standard.

Trev.

I have 100/130 watts with wiring upgrade. I also have two cracked lenses.

Hi Trev
Have you still got the standard wiring??? I guess this is where the largest increase in lighting power is to be made made.Did the packaging say "offroad use only"??? This usually means they dont meet aust ADR rules.
Hi Edd
The globes you have,are they normal halogen 100/130??? As I did read in a mag(I think) that you cant run normal uprated halogen globes due to the heat build up when a wiring upgrade is done.These other globes are rated lower input but with a higher equivalent output.
Im sure Drivesafe will be along soon to point us in the correct direction.
Andrew

I still have the standard wiring as the globes are not overrated. They are supposed to just put out more light? I am going to run a relay system shortly to get more grunt to them.

Trev.

PS Living in the bush qualifies as "Off Road" in my opinion. No "Govt supplied" street lighting out here.

Hi Trev
Thats what Im ready to do,with one of Drivesafes kits.Just looking to go one better in the bulb department.
We have philips +60% in the Trytoo,they are much brighter than standard,but it has standard wiring.
Andrew

Hi LandyAndy, first off, to answer your PM. Try the upgrade first and then, if needed, try the globes mentioned bellow.

To date, I have had nothing to do with the FatBoy Globes but they sound similar to the Philips Crystal Vision globes and It might pay you to check them out and see if the have the same current rating and light output rating and if so, try Bursons Auto Parts, they are about the cheapest I have come across for Philips globes.

Now to the light. If the FatBoy globes are the same as the Philip’s globes, the globe is designed to give a white light.

This WHITE light is NOT as bright as yellow light of the same supposed rated output, in other words, the Philips Crystal Vision is supposed to be equal to a 110 watt conventional globe. From my experience, a 100 watt conventional globe is brighter but here is the difference and what makes the WHITE light globes better.

Conventional globes no matter how powerful they are, all give off yellow light that “ paints “ everything with a yellow hue and makes objects, at a distance, a little hard to pick out till you get closer. EG. 200m down the road on the right is a yellowish coloured kangaroo in the yellowish grass besides the yellowish tarred road.

White light on the other hand actually shows everything it each individual object’s colours. EG. The brown kangaroo is in the green grass next to the grey tarred road.

This is over simplifying it but the white lights definitely gives you the advantage of being able to discriminate between objects at a greater distance than can be done with yellow light.

This might also explain why both the FatBoy and Philips globes don’t get any hotter than globes of equal current rating.

Cheers.

I cant comment on the quality of the light of the IPF fatboy globes. According to the ARB catalogue the have a different gas to "normal" H4 globes and thereore give a light output equivelent to 150 watt ordinary globes from memory.
The first step to improving the light output is to fit an upgraded loom.
What I can say is a few years ago I was searching for a "quality" headlight globe as I was having trouble with globes not lasting very long. I tried Narva, standard Philips range, Hansa and a couple of others. All would last varying degrees of what I thought was not very long.
I bought a set of IPF 110/80 globes as these seemed to be the best I could find at the time and were highly recomended by ARB of course as they sell them. They were quite expensive although I cant remeber the cost anymore.
I have been very impressed with the IPF globes. They give a very good light output and have lasted very well. I am thinking of fitting an HID bi zenon kit at present though.

there was a thread recently on OL general tech forum regarding these vs going HID with an ebay kit, and the concensus from those that had used a few ebay HID's was to go HID if you could afford it. There was a recommendation on which kits were deemed OK.
Can dig it up if anyone is interested.
One of the blokes had spent a bomb on testing different HID kits and retro fitting to various headlights and drivng lights, and had an instruction manual on how to convert Light Force XGT's to HID. The concensus seemed to be that the best light temperature was around 4500K, but a lot of the kits were around 6000K which gives a distinctly blue light for the baseball cap backward brigade, but isn't so good out on the road.