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Thread: Removing the rubber flange from tailshaft

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    'The Creek' Captain Creek, QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by up2nogood
    I've got to do this to my bushranger before I toss in lifted springs.

    What's the best donor shafts from genuine LR's?

    I know one model has a front shaft with a double cardan joint on the t'case end and a single one on the diff end, but which one? Discovery 2 maybe?

    And the rear shaft, are the auto's the same as the manuals for fittings and length?

    And for the shaft conversions, do you need the donor vehicles output flange from the t'case?
    For rear driveshafts, early rangies have wide uni yokes for increased angles.

    Double cardan front shafts from disco II. Also need the disco II front flange for the LT230 as the bolt centres are greater. The u-joints in these don't have grease nipples. You could wait until they wear, then replace them. But don't trust worn joints for too long because the double cardan joint flaying around can do a lot of damage $$$$ before you stop.

    Stage 1 had double cardan joint, but I don't know what is involved with these.
    Last edited by Bush65; 23rd July 2006 at 11:42 AM.

  2. #32
    up2nogood Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Bush65
    For rear driveshafts, early rangies have wide uni yokes for increased angles.

    Double cardan front shafts from disco II. Also need the disco II front flange for the LT230 as the bolt centres are greater. The u-joints in these don't have grease nipples. You could wait until they wear, then replace them. But don't trust worn joints for too long because the double cardan joint flaying around can do a lot of damage $$$$ before you stop.

    Stage 1 had double cardan joint, but I don't know what is involved with these.
    Thanks John, do you know if I need the flange from the diff on the D2 front shaft as well, or will it be the same as the one I have?

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