Thread: Puma door actuator wiring

I'm going to make an assumption based on my memory of stuffing around with a lot of actuators on RRC and Disco 1, as I have never had a problem with the locking on my puma defender....yet....but presumably it operates on the same principles as the D1 and the RR of the same era.
Inside the master actuator (the one with the extra wires) there is a microswitch that is activated by movement of the lock, so that when you use the key or the door button to unlock the drivers door, the microswitch sends a signal to the central locking ECU which then unlocks all the other doors. None of the other 3 actuators on the D1 had the microswitch, all were just slave actuators, so the central locking was not activated if you used the key on the passenger door or the button on the back doors.
I have to wonder why you are planning on installing an aftermarket system. I have had good success with repairs to any problems with the actuators. Can provide details if this is why you are looking at replacing it all. In fact I think I posted a lot of details on this years ago, should be locatable with the search function.

Edit...sorry I just re-read your post as to why you are doing this, i.e. a retrofit rather than a repair. All the above still applies. I don't know if aftermarket systems work on the same principle but it is essential that the actuators are only powered for a second or so during the locking / unlocking cycle; a lot of people assume they are solenoids but they instead have a little electric motor that drives a gear train and if this is powered for more than the time it takes to move the mechanism, all the smoke leaks out of the little motors.

Originally Posted by POD

I'm going to make an assumption based on my memory of stuffing around with a lot of actuators on RRC and Disco 1, as I have never had a problem with the locking on my puma defender....yet....but presumably it operates on the same principles as the D1 and the RR of the same era.
Inside the master actuator (the one with the extra wires) there is a microswitch that is activated by movement of the lock, so that when you use the key or the door button to unlock the drivers door, the microswitch sends a signal to the central locking ECU which then unlocks all the other doors. None of the other 3 actuators on the D1 had the microswitch, all were just slave actuators, so the central locking was not activated if you used the key on the passenger door or the button on the back doors.
I have to wonder why you are planning on installing an aftermarket system. I have had good success with repairs to any problems with the actuators. Can provide details if this is why you are looking at replacing it all. In fact I think I posted a lot of details on this years ago, should be locatable with the search function.

Edit...sorry I just re-read your post as to why you are doing this, i.e. a retrofit rather than a repair. All the above still applies. I don't know if aftermarket systems work on the same principle but it is essential that the actuators are only powered for a second or so during the locking / unlocking cycle; a lot of people assume they are solenoids but they instead have a little electric motor that drives a gear train and if this is powered for more than the time it takes to move the mechanism, all the smoke leaks out of the little motors.

Thanks POD just seen your replay - thanks.
Yes this is a retro fit job. Doors fitted last weekend - finally clear garage enough to be able to do this job. So now have to make up some wiring for Elec windows and door locks.

I have an after market remote unit with door locks - whole set up I have bough to fix my RRC dead elec locks - turned out my son had removed the fuse!!!!!! So that was an easy fix. Since then had this box of actuators plus control unit and remote fob. So my plan is to try and marry the aftermarket wiring loom/control unit/fob to the Puma/Defender door locks so that they work.

I assumed and you confirmed that the other wire (yellow/pink trace wire) from the drivers door goes to the ECU to let it know know that the key lock is unlocked and thus unlock the passenger door too. Presumably the yellow/pink wire is grounded to the black earth when the key lock is used and that grounding is the signal to the ecu to open all locks.

I juts have to figure if the aftermarket remote box works the same way and which wires.

Going to be cool when all set up


I guess I am just going to have to test and

Hi, the yellow/pink wire on the first diagram is described as "driver's sill input" and switches to earth when the door latch is locked/unlocked to activate the central door locking. The 10AS alarm ECU has an internal logical system which uses this input for lock and unlock according to the door latch's status which means if it gets earth on that input while the vehicle is in locked status it will unlock all doors it and vice-versa. The aftermarket system has the two(white and brown) wires for that function so for unlock earth is siwtched on one of them(white or brown i dont know which one) and for lock earth goes to the other if you see what i mean.