Thread: LT95 Centre Diff Rebuild Confusion

I’m sure Bearman will be along soon......

Originally Posted by I Love My Landy!

Good evening all,

1984 110 V8 LT95 – 600,000 km without a centre diff rebuild.

I’ve been putting off rebuilding the centre diff in my LT95 for a while, however recently I have been getting a shunting through the driveline when coming to a stop while in neutral, which I assume is the sloppy centre diff, so it is finally time to rebuilt it.

This vehicle is a daily driver, so to save time I’ve pulled the centre diff from an early rangie LT95 in order to rebuild it and do a direct swap, BUT, I found that it has no thrust washers behind the side gears, nor does it have an oil retaining ring. So my question is, do I rebuild this unit or is it best that I rebuild my unit that would have the thrust washers and oil retaining ring? (I’m also worried that my casing is worn behind the bevel pinions, whereas the old rangie casing looks pretty good). How do you set the preload of the diff without using thrust washers?

Also, I believe it is best to lock the centre diff before removing the diff, but the manual states that the centre diff needs to be UNlocked in order to do the rolling resistance test? Can anybody explain this to me please?

Many thanks,

Edward 😊

The early RR ones were dsigned as a throw away when they wore out. The preload was set by the machining tolerances and the brass shims behind the bevel pinions. If it still feels ok (no slop) I would use it. If it wears behind the side gears you can machine it flat (with access to a lathe) and add thrust washers and a new gearset to fix it. Bit harder to fix if the wear is behing the bevel pinions but Total Traction Drivelines in Melbourne can repair them for a cost. The oil ring can be added to the earlier diffs if you want.
The reason to lock the CDL before removing the centre diff is to pull the locking collar onto the front output shaft otherwise it will partly fall off the fork and make it almost impossible to get back in place when you insert the centre diff assembly back in there. The rolling resistance is measured without front or rear shafts inserted into the centre diff but if you are doing it in the vehicle the front must be unlocked otherwise you are trying to turn the front driveshaft.

Thank you for that clarification Bearman!

The centre diff has no visible wear on the housing faces behind the side gears, which is good news then! There is just a little bit of wear behind the bevel pinions. I have assembled the diff using a new HD cross pin, a new oem gearset and oem bronze washers and I can only feel the tiniest but of freeplay between the input and output shafts. I assume this is okay? (You gotta have a little bit of freeplay don't you?)

Edward

Originally Posted by I Love My Landy!

Thank you for that clarification Bearman!

The centre diff has no visible wear on the housing faces behind the side gears, which is good news then! There is just a little bit of wear behind the bevel pinions. I have assembled the diff using a new HD cross pin, a new oem gearset and oem bronze washers and I can only feel the tiniest but of freeplay between the input and output shafts. I assume this is okay? (You gotta have a little bit of freeplay don't you?)

Edward

If you put the front and rear output shafts into it and hold one while turning the other it should have a slight resistance but not feel notchy.