Hint. use Holden thread sealant when reassembling.
Although none of the head bolt holes go into water jackets the sealant helps to stop the corrosion.
Regards PhilipA
I know the space is tight, but if you had a hand, with medium pressure on the breaker bar have someone use a hammer and punch and tap - not hard, but enough to shock - the socket end of the bar above the bolt to "shock" the bolt. Had to do it numerous times to remove head bolts on CAT C15s and Cummins ISX. It is also my go to method before I get too angry and strip something and have to do more work. Often Il even give bolts a quick tap before I have a go in anticipation.
'15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
'89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*
Hint. use Holden thread sealant when reassembling.
Although none of the head bolt holes go into water jackets the sealant helps to stop the corrosion.
Regards PhilipA
Oh, I see, there is two different threads going here .....
Only people like me end up with crap like this. So after all this buggering around to find the pickup in the dizzie wasn't working properly ...... I wanted to find out how it is possible that the damn thing over-fueled so much it hydrolocked. So I whipped the fuel rail off and tippied it upside down .... checked the voltage at the injector plug (12volts). This is going to be simple. I'll just cycle the key and run the pump for 2seconds and power each injector and see if it dribbles/leaks..... I actually didn't get that far ... instead grabbed my 8year old and said "here video this, no-one would believe me unless they can see it"......
if you can't tell what it is from an 8year olds height ..... thats the fuel pressure regulator pushing fuel straight out of the top of the vacuum capsule ( so basically the pumps capacity of fuel is being pushed through). This line plugs into the inlet manifold right beside No 8.![]()
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Ouch understood your big sad
Is it actually possible to get the motor out of one of these cars without taking the gearbox?? I reckon given the time I've spent mucking around trying to get to the damn bell housing belts I'd have had the lot out with a fraction of the frustration. I manged to get the top bolts out by removing the engine mounts and dropping the motor down (and using a spanner I hammered a bend into to access them). The others were bloody fiddly but with a variety of extenion socket bars I manged to get to them. I'm stuck on the last bolt. Its above the clutch slave housing. You can't get to it from above or below.... you have transmission lines, exhaust, clutch slave lines and the firewall carefully surrounding it to prevent access.
I'm figuring everything just pulls the gearbox as they know you can't get the motor only out ?
seeya
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Yeah, this might be quicker than pulling the lot 2nd time around.... I bent a spanner up to try and fit ...... no go, no matter what I tried, I couldn't get it to sit flushly on the bolt head (I realised the bell housing was in the way of the head of the spanner .... I will need a thin walled socket). So I dropped the motor as low as it would go and found if you chop your arm up really good reaching up between the downpipes, the clutch slave piping and transmission pipes .... you can guide a stack of 3/8th extension bars together onto the bolt head (the curve is the extension bar joints allows you to get in there).
Then I found I coulnd't get the socket on ... the bolt edges must be slightly burred. I tried everyway I could think of just to tap the end of the socket bars with something (impossible given its location). In frustration I decided to grab a 15mm socket and try that. If I rounded the bolt ..... well it has to come out either way. I went through all the sockets trying to find something "a bit" larger than 14mm ....... (I've got all the sockets arranged by size on nails) .... and spotted there was 14.2mm ..... Damn it, I've been using a 14mm on all the fasteners, they must be 9/16s A/F ( this car is from 1992 .... my bloody french cars were even metric way back in the 1930's !). Anyway, I managed to wiggle a 9/16 socket on and finally get that bolt out. It was very tight, so more luck than anything that it come out without rounding the bolt head.
seeya
Shane l.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
I've heard that by removing engine mounts lower engine this then gives space to access top bell housing bolts. Mines LT95 and I've got access however sounds a decent idea.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | 
    Search All the Web! | 
  
|---|
| 
 | 
 | 
Bookmarks