Thread: 300tdi crank case locking tool

Originally Posted by AK83

My set(both actually, new one too) say Bergen on the packaging. Got them from a UK supplier .. could be Chinesium copies tho .. I doubt any way to confirm.
I'm assuming high grade steel of some type, zero rust on the IP pin in 4 years, basically in open weather.

Where mine snapped could be because my D1 is auto, and the flywheel pin is inserted about 3/4 of the way into the 'flywheel' ... so less holding force than a manual model which is on the ring gear.

rope in the cyl sounds like a good way if tool isn't available.

for the auto there is 2 locations,

for timing you use that location,

for undoing the bolt and bold timing (as in are we close enough that we can find the timing points) the tool looks akin to a socket that goes through the access point for doing up the bolts on the torque converter and grabs hold of one of the bolts for the torque converter. I generally use a 6 point socket and a sliding T bar or ratchet to hold it in place.

again, once its in place, tie the keys to it.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

a free word of warning.... (or several)

1. tie the ignition key to the handle before you install this (go on, ask why and then go "ohhhhhh, never mind" before I can reply)
2. drop the 4 bolts that come with it into the drain, go buy yourself some grade 8 preferably 10 replacements (yes, this is part of the answer to 1)
3. buy or make a thread chaser for the holes in the harmonic balancer
4. 2 bolts wont cut it, 3 will
5. clean the face of the tool and the harmonic balancer before you put it on
6. flat washers under the head of the bolts and antisieze on the bolts before you start
7. no, its not a puller do not try to use this tool as an improvised replacement for the proper pulling tool (this may tie into points 2-4)

Hello Dave,

Well there you go - back in February I looked at the bolts which came with the kit and went "nope". I then went to the local bolt supply place and bought four decent bolts. I used four bolts on the tool. Plus, I rigged up a large metal plate to act as a stop for tool to brace itself off between the top of the steering box and extended to the chassis rail.

This set-up worked with surprisingly little effort. Some photographs I saw online showed having to put lengths of pipe on the end of breaker bars to provide more leverage. On Snowy the hex nut came off with just the breaker bar.

Kind regards
Lionel

Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello RAR110

If you are describing taking off a crank damper bolt or locking the motor you may need one of the tools shown in the photo. There are some websites that describe fabricating your own version of the "anti-rotation" tool.

Kind regards
Lionel

I’ve done some measurements. It looks like the ring OD needs to be about 80-85mm and hole diameter is about 65mm.

Originally Posted by rar110

I’ve done some measurements. It looks like the ring OD needs to be about 80-85mm and hole diameter is about 65mm.

Hello RAR110,

Pipe Collar that fits into crank pulley recess:
Outside diameter is 89 mm
Main Inside Diameter is 60 mm
Inside diameter then changes to form a 65 mm inside diameter which is 6 mm deep step down from the top or the rim
Overall Pipe Collar depth 68 mm

Thickness of plate that forms the main body of the wrench is 8 mm

Handle diameter where the collar is sleeved and welded inside the wrench body: Outside diameter is 104 mm
Overall length of wrench 470 mm

The pipe collar is welded to the top and bottom faces of the wrench body as a continuous bead around the outside diameter of the pipe collar.

Kind regards
Lionel

Just for ideas on another method of building one.

20210404_154210.jpg

The tool I got is made of two rings held together with the 4 square section welded to each ring.
I can't be sure on this particular one, but I think the top ring section(about 8-10mm thick) is a ring then welded to the handle, fine grinding marks can be seen where the two sections meet. So I don't think it's a single piece.
Lower ring is thinner at about 5mm thick. Square section uprights are similarly about 5mm thick steel.
Gap between these square uprights is spot on to fit a nut to hold the bolts captive in the tool .. which I'll do one day.

Of note is not too long on the bolts if you follow Lionels dimensions too.
I measured the depth of the 'pipe collar' on mine at 60mm, from front face to rear face which butts against the HB. The bolts max out at about 10mm of thread into the HB, they bottom out.
(for exactness tho: the threads are threaded through, but there is a dust/mud shield behind the HB which bottoms out the bolt threads.

So as the tool I have is 60mm deep, my M8 bolts are 75mm M8 bolts which gives nearly 70mm of thread(and shank). Minus the washer(~2mm) and I think I see about 7mm of thread into the HB. So they don't bottom out.

I dunno what Lionel used/uses, but at 68mm of depth he'd probably use 80mm M8 bolts to get 75mm of thread, minus a couple of mil of washer depth too .. ie. about 10mm of thread depth into the HB.

I think I measured the PCD of the bolt holes at about 73mm .... very roughly using a tape measure! .. so take that with a grain of salt.

Originally Posted by AK83

Hello Arthur,

As per your message ...

Lionel uses, 80mm M8 bolts to get 75mm of thread, minus a couple of mil of washer depth too .. ie. about 10mm of thread depth into the HB.

That is 80 mm of shank length from the head of the bolt. I also use four bolts.

Two other versions of the tool are shown in the TrailerFitter's Toolbox YouTube series accessed 4th April 2021 from, 200tdi / 2.5NAD / 2.5Td crank holding tool - used when undoing the crank dog nut - YouTube

Similar to the one I bought ... the photo of the kit shows the step down within the internal diameter of the collar https://fourby.co.uk/epages/95000427...ucts/CrankLock

Kind regards
Lionel