And the not having to lock it when you hit the dirt roads is probably the best feature.
And it reduces/eliminates the backlash in the t/case, a lot of which usually stems from worn thrust washers (refer roverrescue's post...)
And the not having to lock it when you hit the dirt roads is probably the best feature.
My transfer box center diff assembly and also the one in the “donor” box were worn past the point of no return, the wear and damage that ensued is a common problem with the LT230. I had two choices, keep everything original and purchase a genuine center diff assembly OR upgrade to a stronger unit in the form of an Automatic Torque Biasing limited slip diff and enjoy the performance benefits whilst never having the original problem reoccur again. The decision was made even easier easier by the fact that the genuine replacement diff assembly was more expensive than the Ashcroft ATB and the ability to “lock” the center diff remains available.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Thanks guys,
I was just interested to see why people were spending this sort of money when I couldn't see much gain. I'm happy to simply move the little stick sideways if I need toI've never struggled to wonder when the center diff should be in. If it's slippery enough to spin a wheel..... push the lever over. If it isn't, pull the lever back
You really shouldn't hurt anything either way. What seems to destroy diffs is allowing to much wheel spin. You starve the tiny little spider gears of oil and seize the diff.
the reduced lash sounds like the best aspect of this too me. I just fitted another LT230 to my old ****box range rover ..... and didn't even drive the length of my drive and decided something was definitely off .... This thing is QUIET ... and 95% of the driveline lash had disappeared like magic. I eventually worked out I'd managed to fit something known as a LT230Q .... I think its bloody brilliant. Hardly any lash and nice and quiet. What more could you ask for while still keeping the transfer case gear driven (I'd never refit another borg warner viscous unit ... ).
seeya
shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Give it 10K klms or so, and that lash will rear it's ugly head again.
I wanted to do a ATB centre diff myself too when I got a changeover TC done a few years back, but the budget wasn't there at the time.
Approx 20-ish or so K klms and the lash has started to annoy me a little(even tho it's an auto).
Having had an RRC for a good 15-20 off years tho, you acclimatise yourself to such idiosyncracies ... so in some way lash is not really a problem .. until it is again
And as with Bob's choice, if it came to the choice between rebuilding a std centre diff and getting an ATB .. for sure the ATB would be the better option for the long term owner.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Not necessarily.
When I build my D1 I did the TC, both diffs, new joints and axles etc.
I ended up with almost zero backlash in the entire driveline. And it was still the same when I sold it a few years later.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
My own TC has done almost 450,000km and the donor TC 290,000km. Both helical gear sets don’t appear to be as worn as those in your pic.
The problem in both my boxes was with the worn / missing thrust washers and the diff pinion gears grinding metal on metal.
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LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
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