Reply With QuoteNot a left hand thread is it?
Trev.
ChatterBox
Help required AARRGGGH @%$# Diff
Deciding to do a bit of work on the pig I replaced the uni joints on the prop shafts and then got around to WANTING to replace the Rear Diff pinion seal as guess what it leaks.
step one: dumped the old oil/mud/water jeeze it was a mess.
Step two: jacked up rear wheel and locked it in place.
step three was as far as I got the diff pinion flange nut (1 1/4") looked almost new condition but will not break free.
I have tried using my sidchrome socket set a 6 foot breaker bar with me standing on it(even hilifted the body for more space)
Soaked it in WD40
used a impact air wrench
hammer and drive
Last resort Heated it using a butane torch.
3hrs later the punch marks on the nut had moved a mill
Any suggestions guys before I torch the whole god damned thing.. due to my mood I have probably missed the simplist thing..enlighten me please.
Dd
Wizard
Not a left hand thread is it?
Trev.
Swaggie
SubscriberOriginally Posted by disconut
i was gunna say turn it the otherway
130's rule
YarnMaster
First question... Is it a Salisbury? If so mark the position of the nut before losening it. Then, once loose, count the number of turns it takes to get it off.
Why? There's a crush washer, thingy behind it. That way, when you have to do it all back up, all you do is spin the nut on the same number of turns and then line up with the markings.
If it isn't a Salisbury... Did you remove the lock pin?
If it's any help, the way I had to do one of my non-Salisbury pinions, was to get the missus to stand on the brake peddle while I released the nut with a socket on the end of a breaker bar... At the end of this I used the bottle jack & then jacked it for all its worth.
M
ChatterBox
Thanks for the info Camellandy yep she is a Salisbury, if you noticed my original post said "the punch marks hadn't moved a mill" I was already to start counting the turns provided it turn't and by the looks of things it is a lefty lucy not a righty tighty
even heat didn't work as I was worried about the bearing oil seal behind the pinion seal. looks like another trip to Rova tech.
Master
They can be bloody tight, I have heard of people pre-tensioning the nut with you 6 foot pole on the ground ,then driving the vehicle forward a bit to get it to crack.
Master
The right way to do it is to use a special tool that bolts onto the drive flange and rests up against the the chassis rail.You can make one not that hard to do.
Then I would get a 3/4 inch socket and beaker bar. With the back axle on ramps or blocks under the Tire's. There should be enough room to swing a long pipe to remove the nut.
If you still can not move it, take out you rear axles and drive in FWD down to a tire shop or truck repair place and they would be able to remove it.You don't need to have it to tight to drive home again.
You will also need a gear puller to remove the drive flange from the pinion.
It is possible to fish around inside the diff with a piece of wire and remove the crush washer.
The army mechanic told me that the crush washer would only handle 1 or two oil seal replacements before you need to change it.
You can't be sure that the last mechanic put the thing in correctly.
So if it were me I would get a new crush washer and re-torque the nut correctly.
If you have heated the nut I would replace the nut as well.
Last edited by Gavo; 16th July 2006 at 02:44 PM.
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