Thread: Replacing R380 in Td5 - what other maintenance items at the same time?

The Givens are:

Thrust bearing.
Spigot "bearing"

The rest will be on how they look when they come out, and your tolerance for risk when reusing old parts that cost a lot of Labor to get too.

I recently had one apart to do the spigot, everything else was fine, but was instructed to change it all anyway.

The flywheel should be dual mass, they have a certain amount of spring pre load that needs checking.

Originally Posted by shack

The Givens are:

Thrust bearing.
Spigot "bearing"

Thrust bearing - is that what I would know as the throw-out race? If so, Usually it’s included within a clutch kit along with the clutch plate and pressure plate.

Spigot bearing - bronze bushing fitting at the back of the crankshaft and the engine end of the gearboxes input shaft?

Originally Posted by shack

The rest will be on how they look when they come out, and your tolerance for risk when reusing old parts that cost a lot of Labor to get too.

Very low tolerance for risk on this one, hence the question. I want to knock off all the preventative maintenance to avoid labouring for the removal again in the near future.
The cost of these additional parts is less than what I value my time and labour efforts at.

Originally Posted by shack

The flywheel should be dual mass, they have a certain amount of spring pre load that needs checking.

That makes it hard to preplan and preorder parts then as the flywheel will need to be inspected before knowing which way to go…

Someone with more experience than I on the DM flywheel will probably be able to give you a life expectancy on them, and you could then gauge what you want to do.

If it were me:

Clutch.
Pressure plate.
Spigot.
Thrust.
Flywheel.


The yoke/fork should be ok on a TD5.

I'd also do the seals on the transfer case.

Cheers
James

LT230 Input Oil Seal ICV100000
Td5 spigot bush - Defender Td5's list LFB500050 while D2 Td5's list 8566L
Rear main oil seal - LUF100420
Sump gasket - LVF100380 (needed as sump has to be dropped to do the Rear Main)
Oil pump bolt - LYP101400 (might as well check when the sump is off)

Would seem that the clutch fork (576137) are a long lasting item used in a lot of the older vehicles too
Slave cylinder - FTC5202
Master cylinder STC000280

DMF - PSD103470
Clutch palte - UQB000120
FTC4630 - Clutch Cover (pressure plate)
Clutch release bearing - FTC5200

Originally Posted by twr7cx

LT230 Input Oil Seal ICV100000
Td5 spigot bush - Defender Td5's list LFB500050 while D2 Td5's list 8566L
Rear main oil seal - LUF100420
Sump gasket - LVF100380 (needed as sump has to be dropped to do the Rear Main)
Oil pump bolt - LYP101400 (might as well check when the sump is off)

Would seem that the clutch fork (576137) are a long lasting item used in a lot of the older vehicles too
Slave cylinder - FTC5202
Master cylinder STC000280

DMF - PSD103470
Clutch palte - UQB000120
FTC4630 - Clutch Cover (pressure plate)
Clutch release bearing - FTC5200

In the past when doing this job on the same car used for critical operations this is what I did

Vehicle history and mileage needs to be taken into account
Clutch plate, spigot, thrust and flywheel all without hesitation
With the rear main on a TD5 I was always told to leave them alone if there was no indication of leaking
If there are any leaks at the back of the sump replace the sump gasket
Clutch hydraulics both master and slave if you have a cruise control replace the clutch switch as well
While the starter motor is out recondition it (at least replace the solenoid bits)
Rebuild transfer case all bearings and seals this is a cheap job redo the centre diff with one piece cross shaft (or fit an ATB )
You could also change the oil cooler pipe on the R380 to having an actual cooler at the front this will be nicer for the new box
Also a slick shift for the R380 makes things a little nicer
If you are really feeling rich put a Roamerdrive in the car and you will never look back