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Hi Keith,Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
My understanding is "Wolf" rims are just the later Hi Cap rims with holes. IE: dimensionality the same as 130 or 110 Hi Cap rims, later ones are tubeless.
So your existing 130 rims may fit over Going Bush's disc conversion.
They are both 16x6.5 20.6 offset, but there are people, such as KLR, selling 0 offset "Wolf" rims
Tony
No, the centre nave is quite a different shape and the inside diameter of the Wolf hoop is greater than the 130 rims / 110 high cap rims.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
I wonder how a AYG8038 wheel would go? 5.5" width but 1/2" less offset than a std LWB 5.5" series rim. Ie sit further outboard and give a better steering lock against the spring leaf.
No, the offset is not the issue, But luckily The wolf rim has the same offset against the spring as a 5" SWB rim , it does not rub, where a 5.5" LWB rim does.Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc_td5
There are 2 reasons why none of the Series / early 110- 130 rims will fit over most disc brake conversions has nothing to do with the offset , The Nave , or centre of rim has a different profile and it rubs against the caliper , AND the bead well in the centre of the rim hoop is deeper on a traditional rim so the internal diameter of the hoop is smaller.
Either the inside of the hoop fouls or the nave fouls , or in my case on the front both fouled.
All traditional rims have the deep well , Only Wolf and Disco1 rims have the shallow well and larger internal hoop diameter which gives clearance for the caliper to sit.
Attachment 184421
Yes, just bought 6 zero offset Wolfs from KLR.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
Update on the 4 wheel disc conversion,
I was happily running it non boosted , with servo delete and pondered putting a Vacuum booster back on to make the most of the discs but the thought of a noisy vacuum pump turned me off the idea. Then a Tesla iBooster came up in a discussion on an EV forum as an alternative to retrofit into EV Conversions.
So I purchased a Bosch Gen2 iBooster from a smashed Tesla Model3 .
I made a simple adapter and fitted to the Landy pedal box. To say the brakes are sensational is an understatement and totally silent.
Attachment 184624
The booster is in failsafe mode so does not need to see a CANbus but has the facility for "brake by wire" so could connect it to a dash panel switch to hold the brakes, be useful for example if your stuck on a hill and want to get out to hook up a winch etc, same as having your foot on the brake. in the event of electrical fail the pedal just connects straight to the master cylinder as I had before. In the event of a hydraulic fail , eg broken line , the pedal shudders , like ABS pulses. to warn you of a problem , you wont have otherwise known till you needed the brake.
Well my six Wolf rims arrived and in anticipation of going tubeless with my Michelin 255-100-16 XZL,s i bought a bunch of the "fat" TR415 valves. I thought I could carry one of the tubes we took out as an emergency spare if I did serious damage to a tyre.
The 130 rims have the big valve hole for the tube valve and the TR415 but my fitter phoned and said he can not use the TR415 valves as the new Wolf rims have a smaller hole. That means I cant take a tube with me as insurance now.[bigsad]
I just have to hope two spares is enough.
Keith
I'm pretty certain I have seen tubes with the narrower stem. Yes, just checked my 110 - RH front tyre has the narrower stem, with an obviously purpose made grommet round it to fill the hole. I can't remember for sure where that tube came from, but I think it came from Tyreright in Dubbo. But the tube they fitted to another tyre yesterday has the normal larger valve.
Wow, never heard of an electric booster but makes sense now you’ve said it…. I could see multiple applications for those - I would have used one in my 101. I have an electric power steering pump in that which is awesome as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by goingbush
When I first heard of these I had to google if anyone had dismantled one and found this YT video that explains how they work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
start at 3.21 to avoid the irrelevant waffle.
https://youtu.be/SRZ8XDNz2vU't=221
People say they draw some power because they require a 40Amp fuse but I only see an extra 2Amp draw when on the brakes..
It's an impressive bit of kit allright, And worth every bit of the $450 I paid for it.
