Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Basic leak testing of used A/C components and systems

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Basic leak testing of used A/C components and systems

    I'm starting to have a play around working out a custom aircon setup suitable for the county/120.
    I realise that best practice would be to buy all new components, but I've got a bunch of used D1/D2 components here that may well do the job and save me a fair few $$$. They would at least need leak testing prior to messing around any further with them though.

    I'm guessing that any professional auto A/C guy probably wouldn't even consider fitting used parts. I understand that - economics/time/warranty and hassle factor etc.
    Commercial considerations aside - can compressors/evaporators and condensers practically be re-used as long as they aren't leaking - or is the likely failure rate just too high to be bothered?

    To be clear - I'm not looking at de-gassing or re-gassing systems.
    Basically just trying to work out what can practically be done at home using my own labour to save on either buying new parts or the aircon guy's labour. I'll be using a professional for any gas work.

    I've got a decent vacuum pump already, and a bottle of argon for the TIG, so if getting a couple of gauges and some fittings to be able to be able to do component testing is worthwhile I'll do it.
    If having the gauges also meant that I could use them down the track for checking pressures on a working system that could be useful - but no big deal.

    Thoughts/comments?

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    100% doable!!

    Obviously we use nitrogen in the trades for pressure testing, but argon will work, the hardest part is making the adapters.

    I'd use at least 250psi in the condenser, probably only 100-150 in the evap.

    Plunge into a tank of water and check for bubbles.

    The big issue is the oil in the comp.
    It is extremely hygroscopic, it pulls moisture out of ambient air at a prodigious rate, and is cactus in a relatively short time. Think hours.
    It'll need replacing before firing anything up.
    At least the PAG oil used in car AC doesn't hyrolyse like POE used in commercial and industrial refrig does, all it does is hold the moisture.
    Oh, and use a dedicated refrig flushing solvent for the major components and hoses before installation.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Drouin East, Vic
    Posts
    2,780
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Many years ago when I was trained in automotive aircon installation and maintenance, the standard way to test a system for leaks when installing or recharging was to hook up the gauges and vacuum pump and evacuate the system, then leave it sit for several hours and see if it held vacuum per the gauge. A few years ago when I had a system re-gassed, I asked the tech if he would do this; his response was that he can't afford to have his gear sitting connected to a car for hours just to see if it holds vacuum. So I guess it is no longer done, but not because it doesn't work. I'm sure you could jury-rig a vacuum system to test your components this way.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Rick - great info.
    Adapters shouldn’t be too hard - I’ve got a lathe and various taps/dies so should be able to sort something out.
    I’ve also kept various hose end fittings so have those to measure or cannibalise.

    I don’t have any gauges of the correct range that haven’t had oil etc in them - so will probably just grab a cheap service manifold setup off eBay and use that.

    I figured that for just static pressure testing the Argon would be fine - knowing it would get expensive quickly if used for purging!!
    Thanks for confirming it’s ok to use.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    Many years ago when I was trained in automotive aircon installation and maintenance, the standard way to test a system for leaks when installing or recharging was to hook up the gauges and vacuum pump and evacuate the system, then leave it sit for several hours and see if it held vacuum per the gauge. A few years ago when I had a system re-gassed, I asked the tech if he would do this; his response was that he can't afford to have his gear sitting connected to a car for hours just to see if it holds vacuum. So I guess it is no longer done, but not because it doesn't work. I'm sure you could jury-rig a vacuum system to test your components this way.
    I still haven’t got my head around the use of vacuum for testing complete systems.
    My understanding is they get evacuated mainly to remove moisture, but obviously if they won’t hold vacuum then something is leaking.
    But the system doesn’t run under vacuum - so there can still be leaks when it’s running even if it holds vacuum statically.
    From what I’ve read, finding those leaks is typically done with a combination of the UV dye and/or a leak detector.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,some of the time.
    Posts
    13,886
    Total Downloaded
    0
    A vacuum test is a very good test,but not as practicle as a pressure test.

    Rick’s advice is the way to go,being carefull that some leaks are very slow,won’t show a stream of bubbles in a water tank,only a bubble every so often.
    And keep any water or moisture out of the components.

    Also have a good look over the coils for corrosion,if any is present it may be better to replace them,as it will probably get worse,even if they are not leaking under the test.

    Good luck with it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Paul. I've had experience with workshop testing of air-air heat exchangers for aircraft in a past life, so know what you mean about the slow bubble leaks.
    The air-air ones were less critical than refrigerant systems though since there was always more air coming in to compensate for small leaks and there was a specified tolerance for acceptable leak rates.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!