On my D2 transmission cooling lines I am cutting off the rubber hose and will be attaching a weld on AN fitting.
What is better, silver solder or brazing/bronze weld?
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Braze it. when I put Power steering on my Power Wagon I went to the local hydraulics place for a suitable adapter , He did not have any crimp connectors to suit but sold me a weld on fitting , asked the same question , Answer a strong Braze it . Job done took 3 minutes , would not even bother setting up the Tig for that.
Technically, silver soldering is brazing. You're using well over 600* to get the braze rod to melt.
As it's steel you'd be using 45% silver at a minimum, and you'll need a good silver brazing flux.
This is bloody strong, and if done properly, unbelievably neat.
I'd have no issue using 45% silver brazing alloy, in fact, that's how i'd do it, and it'll cope with pressures far above anything the AT will throw at it.
In my line of work it's routinely used on CO2 systems seeing up to 90bar, and safety rated to 120bar. (1750psi)
Another couple of notes on silver brazing.
Custom, lugged steel bike frames are silver brazed, the ones using really exxy Reynolds or Columbus steel, so it's strong.
And a little vanity, this is a braze joint on a $1000+ electronic expansion valve, admittedly not steel, but stainless steel to copper using 45% silver rod. Stainless can be nasty if you overheat it, even just slightly. I wasn't going for super flash, this was a field repair and I was going for quick as I didn't want the system open for too long but you can be quick and neat when you have your flame and heat right.
IIRC it was either 1,3/8" or 1,5/8" tube?
I took a photo to send to all our techs to show that a) the old bloke can braze and b) this is the standard I expect from them all
Scarry can confirm that a lot of tradesman's brazing these days looks like bird poo.
braze joint.jpg
That is a nice braze,done heaps over the years on service valves.
The bird poo brazes,yes they often leak as well,not enough penetration,too much or not enough heat.Or they use Brown tip where they should be using blue,45%,as it is cheaper....
The other thing with 45% silver solder,the materials have to be perfectly clean,this is very important.And as Rick said,get the steel too hot,which is very easy to do,and it is all over,the solder probably won't take.
Thanks Rick. When starting this thread I was hoping to hear from you as I thought this would be up your alley.
I have a couple of questions. After some research, I did come to the conclusion that brazing and silver soldering are both brazing.
However, growing up I always thought silver soldering was using a stick with silver and brazing was using brass colored rods and a different flux to silver solder.
You can also get bronze rods coated with flux. So my question here is, what is the correct terminology to define the two different methods?
Next question. Why 45% silver. My research tells me that higher silver just means lower temps needed for doing the job.
I have stacks of lower stuff in my shed. 3 or 5% from memory. Same stuff plumbers use. If you can tell me why I need 45% for this job I am happy to go and get 45%, providing I can buy one or two and not a pack,
as I guess I would have to sell a kidney to get a pack. (and buying landrover parts I am running out of kidneys)
Also is the flux I have ok for this job?Silver solder.jpg
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
The pics say brazed but I'm sure I silver soldered mine. (the pics are named "silver-solder-braze-oil_cooler_lines".)
Oil_cooler_lines_-2.JPG
Oil_cooler_lines-8w.jpg
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
You need the higher % silver to 'wet' the base metal properly.
3% (yuck, vomit!! Only plumber use that crap) and 5% work nicely with copper without flux, 5% is sort of ok at a pinch on steel with flux but again, I won't use it unless I have absolutely no choice.
I wouldn't and don't use 3% on anything and won't let my boys, either.
Try and bludge a stick of 45% off a compliant fridgey if you can.
It's up around $16-$20/stick at our ridiculous discount from the wholesalers atm so that gives you an idea what your cost will be to barter for one.
45% will capillary much better into the joint and make for a stronger joint.
All brazing is a surface tension weld so prep is important, and be really careful not to overheat the joint. A small tip and relatively soft flame for steel as it isn't anywhere near as conductive as copper. Bright cherry is too hot. The apprentices always overheat the joint, red hot oxidises the joint and you're toast, the flux won't save you. Have the flux flowing and not a lot more heat, and keep the flame moving will have the solder flowing all around the joint and capiliaring (new word!!) inside.
Yeah, we always called it separately silver soldering and (bronze) brazing too when I was young, too, but they are both technically brazing due to the melting points and joints strengths being so far above tin/lead solder. In the US they actually use something in AC that's sort of half way between our silver solder's and soft solder. It's really odd, and has no where near the strength of the stuff the rest of the world uses.
I'm sure that flux will be fine, the specs look good.
Out of habit I've used Johnson-Mathey for donkeys years. I used to have flux coated 45% rods that had all sorts of heavy metals in that are illegal now and the rod and especially the flux was amazing!!!
I doled it out sparingly for years as I was never able to buy any more.
Probably much better for my health, but it was so nice to work with
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