Thread: Winching In and Out of a Shed

Hello Shane,

Thank you for posting the clip of the Jarrett winch and your efforts to get the Citroen into the shed. I bet you are looking forward to when you have done the work to be able to use the Jarrett winch to pull vehicles off the trailer!

Kind regards
Lionel

Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello Shane,

Thank you for posting the clip of the Jarrett winch and your efforts to get the Citroen into the shed. Instead of using a ratchet strap to pull the car off the trailer, could you chock the car and then reposition the Jarrett winch to use it instead? While you are doing all the work at the front of the car the Jarrett winch is visible just sitting there idle in the background.

Kind regards
Lionel

If I had a snatch block I could have just used the winch mounted to the trailer .... hmmmmm.... I must get one some day! Good point.

BTW:

It was easier to get back out of the shed (though its back in now getting the mechanicals torn out of it).

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

If I had a snatch block I could have just used the winch mounted to the trailer .... hmmmmm.... I must get one some day! Good point.

.

Sorry, Shane I watched the video through and then revisited your post and I edited my earlier post, then saved over it. So my original reply that you quoted is now different. I did this because I had noticed your earlier comment about using the dynabolts to make an anchor point on the floor.

Yes, I was running it through my mind while I was watching the video whether you had enough cable on the Jarrett winch to be able hook up a snatch block. The only downside with relocating the Jarrett is the loss of control if the vehicle being pulled off the trailer is facing downhill. I suppose you could hook up a ratchet strap with sufficient slack so it could capture the vehicle at a designated point. Then progress from there and then adjust free travel until the next safety checkpoint. I am not sure if the Jarrett winch has a pawl that can be flipped over to stop the winch from spooling out? If the Jarrett does have a locking pawl then you might not need the 'arrestor' ratchet strap.

Kind regards
Lionel

Originally Posted by Lionelgee

.

Sorry, Shane I watched the video through and then revisited your post and I edited my earlier post, then saved over it. So my original reply that you quoted is now different. I did this because I had noticed your earlier comment about using the dynabolts to make an anchor point on the floor.

Yes, I was running it through my mind while I was watching the video whether you had enough cable on the Jarrett winch to be able hook up a snatch block. The only downside with relocating the Jarrett is the loss of control if the vehicle being pulled off the trailer is facing downhill. I suppose you could hook up a ratchet strap with sufficient slack so it could capture the vehicle at a designated point. Then progress from there and then adjust free travel until the next safety checkpoint. I am not sure if the Jarrett winch has a pawl that can be flipped over to stop the winch from spooling out? If the Jarrett does have a locking pawl then you might not need the 'arrestor' ratchet strap.

Kind regards
Lionel

its a rated winch for lifting, so it has a clutch. it will only wind out if you turn the handle (I wire the pawl up to pull the rope out ... or it takes forever). It makes lowering cars off the trailer very safe. I just use a rope to lower the car if I'm overly concerned though (faster), you just wrap it around the front trailer crossmember a couple of times and you can easily feed the rope out or stop it

I don't tow a lot or move cars a huge amount, I'm just someone that tinkers (not a mechanic). So I haven't set stuff up to work on a daily basis

Now I'm thiking its not even as easy as dynabolting it to the floor. You need the height and clearance to turn the winch handle. i'm in the process of extending the shed, so may concrete in posts to pull cars in ? ( or just add extra doors at the back so you can pull cars through without trapping what tows it inside the shed).

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

its a rated winch for lifting, so it has a clutch. it will only wind out if you turn the handle (I wire the pawl up to pull the rope out ... or it takes forever). It makes lowering cars off the trailer very safe. I just use a rope to lower the car if I'm overly concerned though (faster), you just wrap it around the front trailer crossmember a couple of times and you can easily feed the rope out or stop it

I don't tow a lot or move cars a huge amount, I'm just someone that tinkers (not a mechanic). So I haven't set stuff up to work on a daily basis

Now I'm thiking its not even as easy as dynabolting it to the floor. You need the height and clearance to turn the winch handle. i'm in the process of extending the shed, so may concrete in posts to pull cars in ? ( or just add extra doors at the back so you can pull cars through without trapping what tows it inside the shed).

Hello Shane,

Yes, taking a bullet for the initial additional cost of an extra roller door to have a drive through option is more expensive than just having one wall covered with metal cladding. However, it will pay dividends over the years and avoid a lot of frustration! Plus save the odd utterances of - "I should have done that" in the future.

Kind regards
Lionel

Lionel , a winch is basically just a starting motor, so for every 40 seconds of work, rest for 40 secs.
The winch will work both directions viz power in , power out. So with this in mind ,take all the dyneema off the drum, probably a set screw clasping the end, then lay out the 20 metres of dyneema on the lawn , then wrap 4 turns around the drum leaving 9 metres laid out to your left and 9 metres laid out to your right.

Attach some weight to both ends, eg, spare truck wheels , drive some star pickets into the lawn to secure the winch ,connect the battery and press some buttons .
“For illustration only “

Now with snatch block on a post way out in front of the shed, and another at the back wall of the shed and with winch secured to truck and one end of dyneema through one block and back to front of truck, ....and the other end around block at back of shed and fixed to back of truck you could winch forward and back .

You must keep the dyneema tight , so big turnbuckles on blocks. It does mean you will have to splice , as a lot of rope needed , and a big battery unless you convert the shed 240 to 12 to power the winch.

i know you have 240 ,because I can see the lights from here

Originally Posted by Hogarthde

Lionel , a winch is basically just a starting motor, so for every 40 seconds of work, rest for 40 secs.
The winch will work both directions viz power in , power out. So with this in mind ,take all the dyneema off the drum, probably a set screw clasping the end, then lay out the 20 metres of dyneema on the lawn , then wrap 4 turns around the drum leaving 9 metres laid out to your left and 9 metres laid out to your right.

Attach some weight to both ends, eg, spare truck wheels , drive some star pickets into the lawn to secure the winch ,connect the battery and press some buttons .
“For illustration only “

Now with snatch block on a post way out in front of the shed, and another at the back wall of the shed and with winch secured to truck and one end of dyneema through one block and back to front of truck, ....and the other end around block at back of shed and fixed to back of truck you could winch forward and back .

You must keep the dyneema tight , so big turnbuckles on blocks. It does mean you will have to splice , as a lot of rope needed , and a big battery unless you convert the shed 240 to 12 to power the winch.

i know you have 240 ,because I can see the lights from here

Hello Hogarthde,

Thank you for posting such a detailed outline. Please correct me if I am wrong. From what you describe the method adapts the winch and the dyneema to have the same operation as an endless chain inside a chain block. Instead of the chain running continuously through the block while another chain lifts or lowers the load on a chain block - the dyneema cable is attached between the turn-buckles located at each end's anchor point. Where the warps around the winch drum and the winch controller provide the forward and reverse movement. In this case the crux of the operation is that the load is shifted by rotating the now endless dyeema cable through the winch.

Hopefully, that is a clear explanation and I am on the right track?

I could sit down and investigate the different range of options of using a range of winches, turn buckles, multiple pulley blocks and the differences in mechanical advantage all day. It is just such a fascinating area. I used to apply it in practice for situations when I was working in tree surgery where I had to drop branches from trees that were overhanging immovable objects, such as people's houses. Or I would need to reverse the natural fall of a very large branch or a tree once it was cut; so as not to damage said immovable objects. For some strange reason there is an ilk of people who make very loud objections if someone drops a tree on their house!

Kind regards
Lionel

So we think moving rolling cars around is fun ( especially something with hydraulic suspension ... .124" wheelbase and 5mm of ground clearance ... and no brakes).

Someone Gave me the Worlds Quickest 4 Door Car! BUT it is Very... VERY Broken! - YouTube

who would have thought a modern passenger car would be so difficult to move