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Thread: Winching In and Out of a Shed

  1. #1
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    Winching In and Out of a Shed

    Hello All,

    I would like to set up a system where vehicles I am working on can be pulled into my shed at the start of the day and then pulled out at the shed at the end of the day. I am planning on getting one of the local bobcat operators in with their widest auger and did a hole where two steel I-beams can be concreted into the ground. One steel I-beam will be at the back of the shed.

    Distances
    The other I-beam will be 18 metres (59 feet) away from the front of the shed and be positioned in a garden. The total distance between the two I beams will be 27 metres (88.5 feet).

    Load Capacity
    The vehicles to be winched in and out of the shed range from a 1940 MCP Chevrolet Holden General Service truck to a Land Rover Defender.

    Operational
    Remote press button operation from inside the vehicle's cabin
    A 12 volt battery operated system.
    Possibly something like the type of winch that gets fitted to a four wheel drive vehicle. Instead, of mounting it onto a vehicle, mounting the winch on a steel frame that is hooked to the I-beam anchor point. Then the winch hook or shackle being hooked to the vehicle.

    Limitations
    My lack of knowledge about powered winches. I have plenty of experience with manually operated Tirfor winches - not powered ones

    Background
    Yesterday afternoon, I had another vehicle become inoperable while it was parked outside of my shed. I do have a tractor and other vehicles I could use to tow the currently immobile vehicle into the shed. As things some time go, the vehicle is parked right in a direct line to the bay in the shed where I park my daily driver. The same bay is the one where I park vehicles that I am going to work on. It has not been an uncommon event where a replacement part unexpectedly needs to be ordered from overseas. In the meantime the vehicle sits snug inside my shed, while my daily driver gets parked outside in all types of weather. This is not an ideal sort of situation.

    So yesterday, when the current offending vehicle dropped either its clutch master cylinder or its clutch slave cylinder it got me thinking. Wouldn't it be good if I could just hook up a winch and press a button and be able to steer the vehicle into the shed to be worked on. If things go astray and more parts are needed - to be able to ... hook up a winch and press a button and be able pull the vehicle outside of the shed and then park my daily drive inside the shed so it is outside of the weather.

    Possible Layout
    I do not want to hook up to any of the shed wall frames and place strain on them. Instead, one I-Beam will be located outside of the shed and be positioned very close to the edge of the shed's concrete slab. A small hole cut into the metal cladding and something like a sling located under the bottom shelf of some pallet racking. This sling will be the hitching point for one end of the winch. As mentioned previously, the other I-beam will be located in a garden. This herbaceously located I-Beam will allow the vehicle to be towed well out of the way so that there is unimpeded access to the shed.

    So, given the previously provided information - where to from here?

    • What sort of winch, or possibly two winches would I need?
    • What sort of capacity would the winch need to have?
    • What type of material winch cable would be best?


    Oh, one last limitation - it would be a system where no cables are left laying across the ground after the vehicle has been repositioned.

    A quick look online found a 12000 pounds or 5443.10844 kg capacity winch from Kings for a four wheel drive that is on sale and has a $200 Australian dollar discount! However, I do not know if this winch has adequate capacity to move the dead weight of a 30 CWT Chevrolet/Holdens General Service truck? So, I do not want to swoop on the deal and get left with something not capable of doing the intended job.

    Would the 12000 pounds 5443.10844 kg winch be capable of the job or is it too under-capacity. If it is not up for the job - what capacity should I be looking for?

    One good thing is that the length of cable shown in the advertisement for the winch was identified as 26 metres of synthetic rope. One question answered!

    I just remembered a scene in the movie The Gods Must be Crazy where the driver gets distracted while winching a little short wheel base Series 1 Land Rover. The next thing the Land Rover is off the ground and moving up in the air to the tree branch the winch was hooked up to! ... Just found it on YouTube accessed 28th of May 2023 from,Land Rover Stuck In The Tree Scene From The Gods Must Be Crazy - YouTube


    Hopefully, I have included enough information for more winch-learned people to work off. If you need more information please let me know. I greatly appreciate the opportunity to access your insight. The door for constructive suggestions is now opened!

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  2. #2
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    Hello All,

    Some more digging:
    the Curb weight of a Land Rover 110 is: 2195 kg. Accessed 28th May 2023 from, https://www.auto123.com/en/new-cars/.../1993/base/110

    The Curb weight of a 1940 Chevrolet/Holdens truck is 4640 lbs Accessed 28th May 2023 from, 1940 Chevrolet Specifications. I do want to tow these vehicles into the shed not lift them up off the ground.
    Kind regards
    Lionel

  3. #3
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    A normal 4WD winch will pull any of those. 9000lb is the go to winch rating to pull heavy 4WD's out of a bog hole, they will roll along the ground far easier than that. a 9000lb winch will still pull about 2 - 2.5T with a drum full of cable.

    Have you considered just using a concrete anchor point that you can either winch off or run a snatch block through?



    3M PROTECTA PRO Concrete D-ring Anchorage Plate (AJ720A) - SafetyCulture Marketplace
    Cheers
    Slunnie


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  4. #4
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    My suggestion Lionel is to use your tractor, make up a stiff bar ( V8Ian would have a couple under the seat of the Western Star, just surreptitiously borrow one).

    Weld a clevis on the front of the tractor , a bracket to fit over various bumper bars or on spring hangers,or tow bars and pull or push as you wish.

    You can use the tractor drawbar or 3pl bar , might be easier but means looking backwards.

    dave

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    We just mounted a pintle hook in the centre of the top edge of the tractor bucket, the bar used is about 3m long and has a towball fitting on one end and a pintle ring on the other, pintle end onto hook on tractor bucket and towball onto the vehicle. As the bar is in front of the tractor you can see what you are doing and it's easily manouverable.
    If the vehicle being towed doesn't have a towbar and ball on the back just use a soft shackle or short chain to hook it to the bar.
    We've even used a rideon mower to move a car the same way.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hogarthde View Post
    My suggestion Lionel is to use your tractor, make up a stiff bar ( V8Ian would have a couple under the seat of the Western Star, just surreptitiously borrow one).

    Weld a clevis on the front of the tractor , a bracket to fit over various bumper bars or on spring hangers,or tow bars and pull or push as you wish.

    You can use the tractor drawbar or 3pl bar , might be easier but means looking backwards.

    dave
    Quote Originally Posted by oka374 View Post
    We just mounted a pintle hook in the centre of the top edge of the tractor bucket, the bar used is about 3m long and has a towball fitting on one end and a pintle ring on the other, pintle end onto hook on tractor bucket and towball onto the vehicle. As the bar is in front of the tractor you can see what you are doing and it's easily manouverable.
    If the vehicle being towed doesn't have a towbar and ball on the back just use a soft shackle or short chain to hook it to the bar.
    We've even used a rideon mower to move a car the same way.
    Makes the winch idea look overly complicated, Lionel.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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    Hello Slunnie, oka374, & Dave

    Thank you for the information about the masonry hook, and different options of using tractors.

    I have used a tractor to shift vehicles for the almost 15 years, since the shed was built. Using a tractor is my least preferred option which I have reluctantly used multiple times. The vehicle can be towed only so far into the shed and then it needs to be pushed the rest of the way into the shed. I normally do the manoeuvring by myself. Taking the tractor so far and then getting off to readjust the steering on the vehicle ... get back on the tractor .... rinse and repeat. Somehow - possibly due to tiredness bringing on inattentiveness, the vehicle ends up with some minor damage being done to it during the final push stage.

    Electric winch - remote control of the winch while I am sitting in the vehicle steering it. Not having to get repeatedly on and off a tractor then back into the vehicle being moved to adjust the steering.

    Slunnie kindly mentioned a suggested capacity. Thank you oka374, & Dave for the tractor options. I have unfortunately been there done that with a tractor while fully knowing even then, that there must be a better way. It is time for the 'better way' - a winch with a remote control. I am just after information about what capacity the winch would be best fill my requirements.


    Kind regards
    Lionel

  8. #8
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    How much of an issue it is depends mainly on how flat and smooth the ground is. Last time I did this, about six months ago, I used a small hand puller, with an extension chain as needed, to pull the 2a into the shed after the starter quit and the carby was playing up, making hand starting problematic. Only issue was that I used a set of steel shelves loaded with bolts and nuts etc as an anchor - and they moved about six inches. I have yet to figure out a way of getting them back in place without taking everything off them!

    But if you have an anchor, and the ground is level, it does not take much to move a Landrover or similar vehicle. I actually moved it a few tens of metres this way, including doing a 180, using various trees and fence posts as anchors.
    John

    JDNSW
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  9. #9
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    Righto Lionel, point taken about the tractor .

    That winch would have the capacity , and if you are using a couple of snatch blocks then the effort is easier, and the dyneema is good too.

  10. #10
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    My thought upon reading this was also that you just need a rigid towing bar, I made one decades ago to bring a dead toyota home from the bush and it has been very useful for just this sort of thing- but you do need two people and a second vehicle so I can see why you aren't happy with this solution.
    Any 4wd winch will be sufficient for your job unless you have a very steep approach to the shed; usually in use they are pulling a vehicle that is either heavily bogged or on steep terrain. A used 8000lb winch is probably cheap to acquire these days as all the cool kids want bigger numbers. Also as mentioned above, an anchor point affixed to your slab with masonry anchors will easily suffice; I have moved my metal lathe around in my shed by winching off the base of the shed columns- the lathe weighs around 2 tonnes and was sliding on a sheet of plywood- far more lateral load than a vehicle on wheels!
    How will you power the winch?

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