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Thread: My old Cibie Super Oscars - too yellow

  1. #1
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    My old Cibie Super Oscars - too yellow

    I have had these lights for around 40 years and they have moved from one Range Rover to another. In the early days, I was delighted (pun intended) with the range and brightness.

    Now, however, compared to the my new LED headlight bulbs and a 15" LED lightbar, the Oscars are fairly hopeless. The color is a bad yellow. The lenses are clean and the backing is not rusty

    Has anyone achieved a better result by changing the bulbs?

  2. #2
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    The CRI ( Colour rendering index ) of the old halogens would be around 3000k which is why they look yellow compared to the LED's.

    If you have a decent quality light bar, the CRI will be around 5000- 5700k, so you can find globes like that to suit your old spotties. ( H1's, H4's etc )

    The cheaper poor quality LED spots tend to be 6000k plus ( kings etc ) and scatter light which also reflects harshly off the road signs, but they try to compensate by advertising that you could read a newspaper at 5 kilometres or whatever.

  3. #3
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    40 years ago when Super Oscars were king, what advice would you have given to someone who wanted to fit a set of 1943 driving lights to their 1983 car?
    I found a use for all my once-treasured dinosaur driving lights:
    old driving lights.jpg

  4. #4
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    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    The CRI ( Colour rendering index ) of the old halogens would be around 3000k which is why they look yellow compared to the LED's.

    If you have a decent quality light bar, the CRI will be around 5000- 5700k, so you can find globes like that to suit your old spotties. ( H1's, H4's etc )

    The cheaper poor quality LED spots tend to be 6000k plus ( kings etc ) and scatter light which also reflects harshly off the road signs, but they try to compensate by advertising that you could read a newspaper at 5 kilometres or whatever.
    Very sensible response thanks. Maybe the globes I bought recently for the Cibie's were not the optimum choice. The light is nowhere near as white as I remember the output to be when I first bought them, so I'l follow your lead and look for globes with higher K values


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    what advice would you have given to someone who wanted to fit a set of 1943 driving lights to their 1983 car?

    Probably tell you that we won, and you can take these off now

  6. #6
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    After some investigation and trying various led lights I eventually refitted my Super Oscars to my car. I was looking for long distance lighting of roadside, and stayed with the driving light pattern lenses rather than the spots due to better spread. In place of the 100w globes I added 55w 4300 HIDs. They pi-- all over some of the very expensive LEDs I tried, and cost less than $100 for the Aussie kit.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Michael T
    2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
    Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)

  7. #7
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    Oscars were great lights. They have an excellent parabolic reflector and the correct globes sit in the focal sweet spot. There are LED kits for them, but I wouldn't bother. Never tried the HID kits. Do they warm up quickly enough?

    You will pay mega $$ to equal them.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    I've had Oscars, Super Oscars, 'Bull' lights plus a myriad lesser driving lights over the years. My wife got one of the last Falcons as a company car and the standard headlamps eclipsed anything I had ever had, in both output and distribution of light. I stopped faffing about with historic lights after that, despite the nostalgic attachment.

  9. #9
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    Do they warm up quickly enough?

    Initial turn on takes a couple of seconds to be at max brightness, but from then on, seems pretty much immediate when you flick them back on after dipping for oncoming vehicles etc.


    Michael T
    2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
    Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)

  10. #10
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    My old Cibie Super Oscars - too yellow

    Guys, a bit of clarity.

    CRI - is colour rendering index. It has nothing to do with colour temperature. It is measured between 1-100. A change of “10” is a significant difference.

    Colour temp, usually expressed in Kelvin. Outputs are Often referred to as cooler or warmer.


    pure sunlight is around 5000k and has a 100 CRI.
    It gives you the best perception of colours.


    Using cooler temps will give you the perception of more light - seen as glare by eye receptors, light at the bluer end of the spectrum is not so good for your eyes. It also increases fatigue in your eyes (you may or may not feel it as much as others depending on age etc)

    What is most critical is CRI. Washed out colour is useless when driving. If you cannot distinguish the brown kangaroo from the green/brown shrub you’ll be in trouble.

    There are currently no LED driving lights on the market that can do 100CRI.
    Last edited by Tombie; 19th September 2023 at 08:35 PM.

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