Thread: EGR and turbo issues with the TDV6 2.7 diesel engine

Originally Posted by Tombie

What year is the territory?

Is it fair to say that 95% of the time it does very short trips?

Yep. Mostly a commuter car and shopping trolley.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

That long hose from the intercooler up to the intake is a common fault item on the LR due to it splitting usually behind a reinforcement sleeve. Change that.

Thanks. I hope to do a smoke test to confirm any leaks.

Originally Posted by BradC

The only thing I could think of there is a test point for measuring boost pressure, but I have no idea why it'd be there.

That is what I was thinking too. It has a type of clip to connect something on to it. I am thinking this could be useful for a smoke leak test. Assuming I can attach a bike pump with gauge, does anyone know if it would be a useful test. If so how much pressure should be applied and how long it should hold pressure.

Originally Posted by egr victim

That is what I was thinking too. It has a type of clip to connect something on to it. I am thinking this could be useful for a smoke leak test. Assuming I can attach a bike pump with gauge, does anyone know if it would be a useful test. If so how much pressure should be applied and how long it should hold pressure.

It won’t, a valve will be open somewhere!


Sounds like the following has been your issue:

EGR failures due to sooting up, the good old Sunday drive to blow out the carbon helps (get car up to temp for hours and some harder work to keep them clearer)

Then there was the failure, you pushed it shut, but it’s opened and pumped hot exhaust constantly against the Y piece hence the failure.

If you want to do what you have I can send some blanking plates for the EGR exhaust inputs from the manifolds themselves.

Your vehicle depending on year will also potentially need the EGR tuned out, airflow calcs create the errors . This could also be the main hose to the inlet manifold being split.

To solve all your problems:

Have a tuner program out the EGRs
Blank the manifold gas entry
Replace Y piece
Replace main intercooler hose to y piece

I read this thread with interest as we are on our second Terri diesel.

Problems with EGR valves are mentioned on the Ford forums but, touch wood, we've had no issues.

Both cars owned from new and used by me for the first 5 years and approx 180,000km. First one traded in at 11 years and 220,000km.
Current one at about 200,000km.

Is it driving style that causes the issues ?
Ours were used hard for 5 years then mainly school run from then on with the occasional use towing a car trailer.

I hope you get it sorted out as I found the Terri a great all round vehicle & tow tug.

Colin

Partially, and fuel quality.

An “Italian tune up” is good for them, as is the detergents present in more premium fuel.

Originally Posted by Tombie

It won’t, a valve will be open somewhere!

The whole intake is open from that location. You'd want to plug the MAF and then as you say a valve will be open. I've given it a lot of thought over the last couple of days, and all I can come up with is the location of the valve was determined by the same person on work experience from the sheltered workshop that drew up the AU Falcon.

Originally Posted by gromit

I read this thread with interest as we are on our second Terri diesel.

Problems with EGR valves are mentioned on the Ford forums but, touch wood, we've had no issues.

Both cars owned from new and used by me for the first 5 years and approx 180,000km. First one traded in at 11 years and 220,000km.
Current one at about 200,000km.

Is it driving style that causes the issues ?
Ours were used hard for 5 years then mainly school run from then on with the occasional use towing a car trailer.

I hope you get it sorted out as I found the Terri a great all round vehicle & tow tug.

Colin

Thanks Colin, I think definetely driving style makes a difference.

I put a replacement throttle body housing on. Put the connector back on the EGR valve so EGR's are back in use and they pass the self test when the engine is turned on/off because there are no error codes. Started it, idles well no strange noises so thankfully I didn't damage the engine. Took it for a drive and it has the same issue, not enough power to safely get me around the block. So little power that I could hardly reverse it up my driveway. No codes, no engine light. Slight puff of smoke under heavy reving (to get it up the driveway) but that could be a hangover from the previous poor running.

I did a smoke test with a bike pump and diy smoker and could not find any leaks, I hope I did it correctly. Where to from here?

Could this be something to do with the turbo actuator? I can hear it self testing and can see it moving? But this first started at cruising speed could an actuator fail like that? How do I eliminate the turbo?

My other thought is cat convertor blockage, could that be possible, would it throw a code, and how do I test it out?

Could it be gearbox related? Anyone have other ideas.

Would calling a mobile mechanic with a proper scanner be useful at this stage?