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Thread: Td5 engine intermittently cutting out

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    Cool. Mine is a bit of a botched up mess, as the wiring was very brittle. That looks great.
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  2. #12
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    Question: could a faulty ECU (faulty diode or cracked solder) cause these issues and if so, should this show error codes in Nanocom? Also, where could I get my ECU inspected?

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    Nothing is out of the question, but a more likely scenario would be an injector solenoid starting to fail.
    Having said that, it would feel more like a brief miss, rather than the engine cutting out completely.
    Nanocom mightn't be quick enough to pick it up.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    Question: could a faulty ECU (faulty diode or cracked solder) cause these issues and if so, should this show error codes in Nanocom? Also, where could I get my ECU inspected?
    Anything is possible.

    I haven't had a chance to look at the log yet.

    When an ECU on these fails, they tend to run ok when cold but progressively deteriorate when hot.

    This gets worse and worse once the issue occurs, then can fail dead.

    Edit:

    Just checked the log, if you haven't already tried, unplug the MAF and see what it does

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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    Anything is possible.

    I haven't had a chance to look at the log yet.

    When an ECU on these fails, they tend to run ok when cold but progressively deteriorate when hot.

    This gets worse and worse once the issue occurs, then can fail dead.

    Edit:

    Just checked the log, if you haven't already tried, unplug the MAF and see what it does
    Not much difference when the engine idles. It felt like it was a bit more hesitant to accelerate with the MAF disconnected though. The problem has gotten worse and I barely made it back home.
    Here is a log of the run with MAF disconnected. There were two events at around 20-30 seconds into the drive and about one minute later.

    2.CSV

  6. #16
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    Is the EGR still intact on it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    Not much difference when the engine idles. It felt like it was a bit more hesitant to accelerate with the MAF disconnected though. The problem has gotten worse and I barely made it back home.
    Here is a log of the run with MAF disconnected. There were two events at around 20-30 seconds into the drive and about one minute later.

    2.CSV
    The only thing that even slightly stands out is the reported engine speed at those times.

    What brand CPS did you fit?

    If you are in a defender then it's most likely a manual and you shouldn't see big variations in RPM.

    So it could be wiring, CPS or ECU.

    What did you replace first? Wiring or CPS?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    The only thing that even slightly stands out is the reported engine speed at those times.

    What brand CPS did you fit?

    If you are in a defender then it's most likely a manual and you shouldn't see big variations in RPM.

    So it could be wiring, CPS or ECU.

    What did you replace first? Wiring or CPS?

    So the Nanocom doesn't correctly report EGR inlet then? ( I note it's reading pretty much the same for Boost modulation )
    EGR inlet shouldn't be opening under those parameters.

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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    So the Nanocom doesn't correctly report EGR inlet then? ( I note it's reading pretty much the same for Boost modulation )
    EGR inlet shouldn't be opening under those parameters.
    Bingo, nano does not correctly report EGR.

    Always mirrors wastegate... And yes, they know.

    Any difference in numbers between the 2 is just time skew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    The only thing that even slightly stands out is the reported engine speed at those times.

    What brand CPS did you fit?

    If you are in a defender then it's most likely a manual and you shouldn't see big variations in RPM.

    So it could be wiring, CPS or ECU.

    What did you replace first? Wiring or CPS?
    Yes, it is a manual Defender with a R380 and a tune from Bruce Davis (I really like the tune).
    Well, I know that the CPS that was in the vehicle got damaged as it was not removed when the gearbox was pulled out (scratch marks at the tip of the sensor).
    I have to admit that I never looked into the specs of the CPS and I used a replacement which was my spare. This was ordered by looking at the vehicle compatibility. That CPS made the vehicle almost undriveable and I was lucky to make it home from the test drive.
    I ordered a CPS replacement form Allfourx4, again looking at compatibility with my 15P Td5.
    I assumed that the CPS cable/connector might have been damaged when the gearbox was removed as well and so, I decided to replace the CPS wiring with the Pace overlay cable.

    From the data, can we rule out the TPS? I'm asking because someone on the FB Td5 forum mentioned it.

    So, the recordings were taken with the overlay cable and my 3rd CPS installed at the same time.
    Even with the CPS overlay cable bypassing all the original LR wiring, the symptoms are the same, but to a different extent/severity.

    Another thing, I want to check tomorrow is the ignition switch for heat damage as read that it can cause weird engine starting and running issues AFAIK.
    I will also check the wiring at the back of the main fuse box (mainly fuses 8-15) as I know that the wires into the fuse box can be damaged by vibration (breaking or cover/sheath rubbing off). That's mainly for due diligence to not miss any other possible cause.
    As for RPM variations: I just had to replace an Ashcroft HD gearbox, because I used it as a 5 speed box which killed the 5th gear bearings. Now, I shift at around 3000rpm and only use 5th over 80kph.

    The CPS currently installed is a NGNSC100790 Eurospare from Allfourx4.

    Any idea where I can get the ECU checked?

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