Thread: Removal of mechanical injection pump from a diesel engine

Ok,, so as far as I can see, the issue is not the physical removal of the rather large pump,, its the data needed to re-time it?? Which you normally get from a book?

Is this vid a fair explanation?



Did you know that ISUZU no longer have anything to do with models before 2014? No parts, no info, no help in finding such info.

My experience is only with timing 2 mechanical injector pumps and the procedures were specific to the engines with their own marks and gear positions, using instructions from their respective workshop manuals.

Hmm... This help, Pedro?

443954189-01-Engine10PD1-pdf.pdf

From what I can gather the 10PC1 is essentially the same as the 10PD1 and 10PE1. 🤞

Before you remove the injector pump, confirm the current timing by turning the engine crankshaft and cross checking the timing markings on the pump and flywheel as viewed via three inspection ports.



The translation is - rotate crankshaft until the timing on the flywheel lines up with the pointer, and then check the line marks on the injector pump.

There should be a Engine ID label on the rocker cover which confirms the actual engine model and if you are lucky the specific timing data for that model. Otherwise just maintain the timing you currently have. That is line up the injector pump line markings via the round inspection port, and then check what the timing shows at the flywheel.

There should also be a cover over the top of the injector pump drive gear and if you turn the crankshaft you will find indent markings on this as well for when installing. If there is no indent marking, then use a marker pen to mark which tooth was aligned with the reference point on the cover before you remove.









Plus there is another smaller inspection port which also has markings on it that should line up when the main drive gear is at the indent marked position.





If you find the markings between the main gear and the round inspection port do not line up, then there are four bolts on the main gear which have to be loosened off, and you rotate the injector pump drive shaft until the timing markers line up again, but then you have to make sure the timing to the crankshaft is correct.

The manual Tins found shows timing is either 16 or 17 degrees BTDC for the 10PD1, but I have also seen some nameplate labels showing 4 or 10 degrees on the 10PE1 motor, and 12 degrees on a 10PC1 motor. So they do vary the timing between different models.



Image above is from an ad for a 1989 model dump truck with the 10PC1 330hp engine which shows timing is 12 degrees BTDC. This label is next to the oil filler cap.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Did you know that ISUZU no longer have anything to do with models before 2014? No parts, no info, no help in finding such info.

what do you mean, as in?

I can go down to the local Isuzu dealer and buy parts for the Perentie engines. Like the updated crankshaft seal and ring.

Originally Posted by Tins

Hmm... This help, Pedro?

443954189-01-Engine10PD1-pdf.pdf

This is the bigger version, but cant hurt!!!

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

what do you mean, as in?

I can go down to the local Isuzu dealer and buy parts for the Perentie engines. Like the updated crankshaft seal and ring.

Isuzu Japan no longer give out any info or help on pre-2014 models..
And Isuzu Oz are even less helpful..

not really the peoples fault, I highly doubt any of these engines were sold here. The trucks they were put in were though...

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

From what I can gather the 10PC1 is essentially the same as the 10PD1 and 10PE1. 🤞

Before you remove the injector pump, confirm the current timing by turning the engine crankshaft and cross checking the timing markings on the pump and flywheel as viewed via three inspection ports.



The translation is - rotate crankshaft until the timing on the flywheel lines up with the pointer, and then check the line marks on the injector pump.

There should be a Engine ID label on the rocker cover which confirms the actual engine model and if you are lucky the specific timing data for that model. Otherwise just maintain the timing you currently have. That is line up the injector pump line markings via the round inspection port, and then check what the timing shows at the flywheel.

There should also be a cover over the top of the injector pump drive gear and if you turn the crankshaft you will find indent markings on this as well for when installing. If there is no indent marking, then use a marker pen to mark which tooth was aligned with the reference point on the cover.







Plus there is another smaller inspection port which also has markings on it that should line up when the main drive gear is at the indent marked position.





If you find the markings between the main gear and the round inspection port do not line up, then there are four bolts on the main gear which have to be loosened off, and you rotate the injector pump drive shaft until the timing markers line up again, but then you have to make sure the timing to the crankshaft is correct.

The manual Tins found shows timing is either 16 or 17 degrees BTDC for the 10PD1, but I have also seen some nameplate labels showing 4 or 10 degrees on the 10PE1 motor. So they do vary the timing between different models.

You Guys ROCK!!!




The 10PC1 is the baby at 14L I think the 12PE1 is 22L?!?!?!??
These E&C series engines came out in a V8 and V10 and V12...
In Giga's etc...