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Thread: bleedin' brakes

  1. #1
    jasper110 Guest

    bleedin' brakes

    hi,
    i'm having difficulty with my brakes. a couple of weeks ago the rear left brake cylinder failed. i replaced it along with the brake shoes on both sides. i had the local garage repalce one of the brake pipes and then bleed the system.

    2 weeks later and i'm still having trouble. the pedal is still very soft (it has now been bled twice). i have also (garages suggestion) clamped the rear flexi pipe and the result was that the pedal was a lot firmer (still a little give) although the stopping power was crap.

    what could the problem be? the garage is thinking towards the rear and that the snail adjusters might be mis-behaving. i have checked the adjustment in these and they seem ok. could they be slipping when the brakes are applied?

    could it be a problem with the master cylinder? i've heard that these can play up if you bleed the system.

    any thoughts would be useful before it goes back in for anoter look.

    thanks.

    ps its 3.5 v8 110. discs front/drums rear.

  2. #2
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    If you have the 2 brake piston setup (one at the top of the drum and one at the bottom) your in for hell as the air tends to hide itself in the vertical transfer pipe. When doing the series 3 brakes like this I resorted to using 3 people.

    1. to watch the fluid level and never let it get low
    2. someone to pump the pedal like buggary then hold the pressure on while
    3. I was at the brake bleeding and getting covered in brake fluid.

    I found that shutting the nipple off before the flow rate of the brake fluid dumping out dropped off gave be the best results when bleeding brakes. You might need to be aware of your brakes safety system If you have a pressure differential valve be careful bleeding the system, when fitted these things can be a bugger to reset if you trip them.

    In one of the other topics one of the guys suggested using a pressurised system to bleed down from the master cylnder. I forget which one it was in, Guys help.

    Ive seen this done mainly in proper mechanics shops that do lots of brake work and bugger me if they couldnt drain flush and bleed a series 3 in 5 minutes flat on a hoist and get a firm pedal first and every go.
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 21st August 2006 at 11:03 PM.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    i got a brake bleeder that sucks the fluid out via the bleed nipple.......
    its makes bleeding brakes a one man operation......





    try to bleed your brakes by simply holding the pedal down and cracking the nipple open......
    dont pump the pedal.....you just aerate the brakefluid even worse as the air in the system bubbles up.....


    where abouts are you....?

  4. #4
    jasper110 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    i got a brake bleeder that sucks the fluid out via the bleed nipple.......
    its makes bleeding brakes a one man operation......





    try to bleed your brakes by simply holding the pedal down and cracking the nipple open......
    dont pump the pedal.....you just aerate the brakefluid even worse as the air in the system bubbles up.....


    where abouts are you....?
    Scotland, feel free to drop round!!!!! thanks though.

  5. #5
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    It was Rick130 with the homebrew pressure feeder. look under the Brake Fluid thread.


    and Defenderzook has a good point re: aerating the brakefluid, If you have air anywhere else than than the short piston to piston transfer pipe you will get more problems.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasper110
    Scotland, feel free to drop round!!!!! thanks though.



    actually.....i was gonna tell you to drop by on the weekend and i will bleed them for you.....

  7. #7
    jasper110 Guest
    would love to!! perhaps i could stay a couple of months, maybe forever? got any jobs going for a 15 year firefighter?

  8. #8
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    and the reason I made the pressure bleeder was because I couldn't get a pedal in my Defender (rear disc) using any 'normal' procedure.

  9. #9
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    I would go to super cheap auto, purchase the one man brake bleed kit for approx $13. This little device clamps onto the bleed nipple and has a one way valve on the other end which means it does not need to be submersed in fluid - bled my brakes and clutch this way - did a very good job. A Land Rover dealer had bled the brakes prior to this using some type of vacuum based system and there was still air in the lines. Daz

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    is your flex pipe in good nic, if its old and you put a clamp on it sometime bits of rubber break offon the insiade and block things up

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