Reply With QuoteMine is an 86 with 4 wheel discs. A really good stopper.Originally Posted by wovenrovings
Master
SupporterJust looked back through this thread and noticed that JDNSW has a 86' model and said brakes are fine.
Jasper110 has a 85' and says it is a poor stopper.
Perhaps i should start a poll to see if there is a theme here.
84' 120" ute - 3.9 isuzu.
Swaggie
Mine is an 86 with 4 wheel discs. A really good stopper.
URSUSMAJOR
Fossicker
mine is a 1985 with rear drums....doesn't stop too well
Master
SupporterBrian did you do the conversion to discs? Did you change the master cylinder?
Jsttry, a couple of questions, does your county have much pedal travel and if you stop in a hurry will the rears lock up? Will just give me an idea if something similar is going on.
Cheers WR.
84' 120" ute - 3.9 isuzu.
Master
WR
Like some of the others stated, the correct adjustment of the rear drums is vital in obtaining good brakes. When adjusted properly the rear brakes should easily lock up on the bitumn.
Try raising one wheel at a time and adjusting until the shoe just starts to touch the drum then back off ever so slightly. Do this to all four shoes, then do a thoura bleed and they should be sweet.
If this dosen't fix the problem I would suggest that the shoes have been incorrectly installed ie. you have the leading and trailing shoes around the wrong way. This will definatly give you poor pedal travel, and only your front brakes will be doing the braking (trust me it makes a huge differance).
If not that then all I can suggest is convert to disc, I did this redently and mine stops like a demon
Some of the early 110 had a PBR master cylinder instead of the british unit, and these stopped alot better as well. It was the same as the old XD? ford mabye? with a 3.8kpa crack pressure, these had the 1" bore which helped.
Good luck though.
Larns
TopicToaster
Why recondiutoned the master. Why not replace. There was a reson it went in the first place. Normal seals. Which go when the cylinder is damaged whgich damages the seals and there for does not give you the best push. I never recondiotn just replace as it will come back and bit you in the A**e later.
Failing that have you checked the Servo
And the vacum pump
95 300 Tdi Defender 90
99 300 Tdi Defender 110
92 Discovery 200tdi
50 Series 1 80
50 Series 1 80
www.reads4x4.com
ForumSage
The rear brakes on any vehicle should only lock after the fronts have. The reason being that the front brakes do most of the stopping work. Any tyre is giving you the most braking force just prior to locking. If the rears lock first, the fronts never reach the point of most effective braking, because you have to release brake pressure to unlock the rears.
Master
SupporterThe master cylinder was sleeved when reconditioned. In my opinion this makes it better than new.
Also the county doesn't have a brake biase valve thing like a defender so rears will lock first unlike most cars. The backs being locked makes the back end a bit tricky to keep in line but if you keep pushing the fronts will lock (or it should be capable of locking them too). This is the problem I have the brakes simply aren't capable of locking on bitumen. Had thought that maybe the master cylinder bore or something changed in 1986 when they went to the 5 speed.
84' 120" ute - 3.9 isuzu.
Swaggie
No, I bought it with the discs fitted. The previous owner told me he fitted a factory conversion kit. When I was looking for a good County-Isuzu, I hardly found a one with drum rears, and I thought they must have gone to 4 wheel discs about the time of the 5 speed box. The pedal is short travel and firm, much like a traditional all drum pedal used to be. The rears will lock up on bitumen when very severely provoked.
URSUSMAJOR
RoverLord
The problem with vehicles such as the 110 is that empty the weight is on the front, but when loaded the weight is mainly on the back - if the brakes are set up to give a proper balance in either situation it will be wrong in the other. I suspect that Landrover tried a number of different setups, varying mainly with linings and the fitting that equalises pressure between front and back, and this may explain the differences that people seem to find. On the other hand, people's expectations probably vary - the ability to lock the brakes on dry bitumen is not something you should ever want to do, especially if the rear locks first (mine does empty), as this gives less than maximum braking, is likely to lead to loss of control, and causes rapid tyre wear. In rating braking I would look at predictable, even braking; short pedal movement; minimum fade even when provoked; reasonable pedal pressures for braking just short of locking wheels, probably in that order. Note that the ability to lock wheels on dry bitumen is not even there.
My experience is that the brakes on the County are quite good and easy to maintain in that condition, although there is more maintenance than with discs. On the other hand they are definitely not as good as my Citroen (inboard front discs, drum rear, zero pedal movement, braking force automatically proportioned between front and rear), even though that design is a lot older than the Series 2.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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